Tag Archives: valves

19Jan/21

S Plan Heating Systems and 2 Port Valves – Plumbing Tips

– We all have dreams. Some of them are nightmares,
some of them aren't. But then suddenly, out of
nowhere, you wake up and I arrive like a bolt out of the blue to tell you about today's
plumberparts.co.uk video. We're gonna look at S Plan systems today and the 2 port valve that's absolutely integral in an S Plan system.

So get ready for the wildest
journey of your plumbing life. Let's just go. So an S Plan heating system is just another way of controlling where hot water goes from the boiler. It can either go to the
indirect hot water coil on the cylinder to heat hot water up that's gonna come out the taps, or it can be diverted
off to heating radiators or you can have another
valve that diverts off to underfloor heating or even another zone for another radiator, all
individually controlled by different thermostats and time clocks.

Today we're gonna look
at the very simplest type of S Plan that you can have. That is, we've got one valve here that goes off to the hot water cylinder and one valve here that
goes off to the radiators. But before we start, as ever, don't do any work on electrics if you're not happy and competent and you don't
have an electrical tester.

Always make sure everything's turned off. Always, before you remove a
wire or anything like that test and make sure it's dead, okay? Because otherwise that how you'll end up. Dead! First, let's have a little
wee look at the electrics. So with this cover off, here. Now as you can see,
sometimes you'll go to places and the wiring's just bonkers. You know, look at that, you might think, "God, where does everything go?" But if you isolate each one
like we did on the 3 Port system that I showed you a few
weeks ago in the videos, we'll be able to find out
where to remove each wire and where to put the new
one in for the new valve.

Get yourself a bit of paper
and write down everything, every colour, and what block it goes to, and where it runs off to, okay? Now, there is a common principle
with all control valves, that they need to be open and
signal the boiler only once they're open to tell the
boiler and the pump to come on. If that wasn't there, the boiler and pump could come on with the valves shut and have nowhere to dissipate their heat, could crack boiler
sections and cause leaks and basically a whole hubbub of hell. Fortunately, all the manufacturers
have thought of this, so when you do your wiring, you have your earth, your neutral, then you have a live
feed to the motor itself so when the thermostat calls for heat and everything it will send a live to this and the motor will motor around, and then it has two wires left.

Now, it's a switch,
basically, that's all it is. There'll always be a
constant live to this. This is why when you need to test for electrics in these things you need to be careful and make sure
the constant permanent live is dead, cause it's a switched live. The only way you'll ever do that is to wire set the whole system electronically by turning it off and removing the fuse. Now, you have the live supply, you have the permanent
live comin' in on one wire. When the valve opens up, it touches a smaller marker switch and sends a live back down this wire to the boiler and the pump
to tell them to come on. It's the same on all these valves, okay? Sometimes the wires on
different valves are different colours, but
generally nowadays they've tried to make them so they're all the same so it's easier for you to change.

If it is different, have
a little look at the book that was supplied with the valve and make sure the wires go
in the right place, then. Let's have a look at this
S Plant system in situ. We'll also describe that
at the office in a second. We have our boiler flow coming from here. It goes up there, just
across the top to the pump, which you can see just here, and then it comes down to this T here. Now it can either go off by this valve, off to the hot water cylinder
to heat the hot water or by the faulty valve that we're removing to the heating system. That's basically how
an S Plan system works. They're generally
controlled by a programmer and a series of thermostats. The good thing about an S Plan system is you can have as many
different zones as you like. So you can have, as I said, underfloor, different radiator zones,
different cylinder zones, things like that, which
make it a lot easier to control the services in your home.

Let's just have a quick
look, schematically, about how these systems work. Imagine we have our boiler here, with our pump flowing
water in that direction. And then we have our
two 2 Port valves here that open and close and send off water either to the radiators and
then back to the boiler, or to a hot water coil in a
hot water tank and then back. The great thing about these systems is you can have more zones that go off to different services
elsewhere and then back. That's the best thing
about an S Plan system, is that you can add things to them. And also, if there's
any problems with them, they're a lot easier to fix, 'cause you can put your
hand on that particular zone and think, "Well that's
the one that's cold.

"There's a problem with that." Also, to give you a better
idea of the electrics, we're just gonna consider the live here 'cause obviously
everything's got a neutral so we'll forget about them. So we have our live coming
into our programmer. After that, before it even
gets to the programmer, we'll take off a live,
which is a permanent live. When we look at our
valve, this permanent live just goes onto a switch
and that will feed off directly to the pump and to the boiler. That switch only ever makes
when the valve is open. So a motor open, and then click on. So how does the valve know when to open? Let's have a look at it as if the hot water cylinder is calling for heat. So, the programmer says
at this particular time that the hot water cylinder should be on. So that sends a live to the thermostat, which is effectively a switch on the side of the hot water cylinder. When that makes, it sends a live back to the motor on the valve.

That motor then motors open
and separately switches that live there that turns
the pump and the boiler on. That's how it works. The only difference between
this and a room system is the fact that a room
has a room thermostat instead of a cylinder thermostat. And that's exactly the
same way that it would work for underfloor heating, radiators,
and hot water cylinders. I hope you found today's
video informative. If you think we missed anything out, or you think that we didn't
quite cover it properly or anything like that, do let us know. As ever, favourite and
subscribe to our videos. Thanks for watching, guys,
and I'll see y'all later. Plumberparts.co.uk.
Honest reviews and advice..

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30Dec/20

TURN ON YOUR HEATING FOR THE FIRST TIME AFTER SUMMER – CHECK LIST – Plumbing Tips

– [Host] George says if
you've been lucky enough to stumble across this
plumberparts.co.uk video trying to find out about
what to do when you're first turning your heating
system on, then great. You're going to find out
all the information you need in the next few seconds. But first, George would like
to tell you to subscribe to our videos because we do
lots of plumbing help every week.

Don't we, George? Don't run away moody cat. Since George can't be
bothered to talk to me, I hope you find out the
information you need. And remember everyone, to hold tight. Plumberparts.co.uk Honest
reviews and advice. Hold tight and welcome to
this Plumberparts.co.uk video. My name's James and today
we're here to have a very quick look through the little
checklist that you should do when you turn on your heating
system for the first time after a balmy British
summer of rain and sort of twenty degrees, you know
when it's just not very nice. The temperature outside at
the moment has dropped down like below zero degrees or
whatever and it is getting cold. So, people are thinking about turning on their heating systems. If you're hard, and you
haven't turned it on yet, and you just put another jumper on. If you're like me, you're
thinking about wacking on your heating now And this is basically a
brief checklist of the things you should do.

Anyway, I'm going to divide
the checklist into two things. Firstly, just the really simple stuff. Any kind of house I know
what DIY can do with really simple tools. And then the slightly more advanced bit. Don't get me wrong, it's
not really, really difficult but you sort of need
slightly a bit more knowledge or, you know, cojones
to have a look at the certain things we're going to do. So, firstly, let me just go
over the really really basic start bits. I hope you enjoy the video. And I hope you subscribe. And I hope that you hold tight. So, number one on your
list of things to do is to get yourself a little
radiator bleeding key like the one I've got here. There are a few different types. And just go around each one
of your radiators in the house and bleed the air out of
the top of the radiator. You're probably going to
find there's not a lot of air or there's none at all.

I mean, that's brilliant. It means the heating
system's been well-inhibited, which is a treatment you
put in the water to stop air happening. If you do have loads of air, might be a good idea to
give your plumber a quick call once you've got
all the heating working. And just say, mate, can you
pop around and wack some inhibitor in the heating system. Or, you can click on the link
that's appearing now that will show you how to put inhibitor
in your heating system. We've also left a link to
that in the description below. So the usual way to bleed
a radiator is to make sure that both valves at each end
of the radiator are fully open. And then, grab your radiator
bleed key and just open that. Open the key up. You'll see which end it is
on the nice cross end here. Just open that up like that. And as you can see, we've
got water coming out here straightaway. Once you've bled any
air out of the radiator, the next thing you're going
to need to do is get a pair of grips.

Remove the radiator
TRV, if you've got one. And then use the grips to
wiggle the pin underneath the TRV and make sure that that's free. Once you've done that, go
to the lock shield end, which is the other end of
the TRV on the radiator. Completely close the lock
shield by turning it clockwise. And then give it half a turn
to three quarters of a turn anti-clockwise, and
that radiator is set up and ready to use. Do that to every radiator
in the house and then we can move on to the next
(mumbles) we need to do before turning your heating system on. So once you've got that
done, obviously, you know if you're letting water
out of the radiators, if you haven't got an F
and E tank in the loft, which will automatically
refill the heating system, then, you're going to need
to use the fitting lube on the boiler or on the
pressurized kit to just top up the water level in the heating system.

If you're not happy doing
this bit, then get a plumber in for you. I mean, it is really, really
easy and I've left a link in the video description below as well as how to pressurize
a heating system as well, we're using that method. So, the next thing you'll
do is go to your room thermostat. If you've got one like
this, make sure it clicks (clicking sound) Yeah, clicky click click.

So make sure that that's working. And then really we're at
the end of the beginner's department, okay. You've gone around every radiator. You've effectively done
a thing called balance the system, whereby you've shut down
the lock shields and just cracked them open a little bit. What that does is evenly
distribute flow throughout the whole heating system, so all
the radiators get nicely warm. We've made sure that the
TRVs aren't stuck shut because sometimes they can
be shut for the hold of the summer, and then not spring on again.

And also, we've made sure
that there's no air in the heating system. The next few things I'm
going to show you are very very simple. Before you turn the heating system on, it's very important that, number one, you know that
the pump has got water in it. If you can get to it. And also that the pump empeller
inside is nice and free. And then secondly, if
you've got any zone valves, either two port or three port
valves, just use the lever arm on them to make sure that
the valve body is completely free. I'll show you how to do
those bits right now. Alright, so I just so happens
I've got a nice little pump like this just hanging about.

I've taken it out of an hold house. A real old Grundfos, this one is here. But most of the pumps are the same. A lot of the time now the pumps
are self (mumbles) and you won't have a knot on
the end of it like this. But, if you've got a knot on the end of it like this one here, it
can't hurt just to whip this knot off using a large slotted
screwdriver like the one we've got here. You're going to get a little
bit of water come out of here, so you might need a
little towel or something like that. And then inside you've
got the actual end of the impeller. We pop our screwdriver in
there and as you can see we can wiggle around the
impeller on the inside. So now we know that the
pump's going to be free and it isn't going to seize
up and burn the pump out when we turn the power on. What we do, once we've done
that, is is just pop our little nipple back on
here and tighten that up.

So the next and slightly
more advanced thing is where after we looked at
the pump is to make sure all the two port and three port valves are motoring okay. Really really simple to do. You can either grab the lever on the end. Most different manufacturers
of two port and three port valve have a motor
on the end as well, so you can have a look at that. And if you really, really
want to go into it, you can unscrew the little screw at the end. Make sure the power's off of course.

Which it should be because we haven't turned the heating system on yet. And you've got a little screw in here that undoes just like so. And you've got a little
screw on the other side here that undoes. Then, you'll be able to pull off the head without having to drain anything down. You can only do that, especially with these Honeywells, with a head that's got a dimple on it. But every other top manufacturer, Drayton, Morrison, Danfoss, there's loads of them. All of their heads can come
off pretty much without having to drain anything down. And then, you've got the
actual valve body here, just make sure that that's
nice and free and easy to move as well. And there we go. That's lovely there. And we know that's working okay. And we know that the
motor alright on here. Now once you've done all those checks, I always advise that
if you want to pop half a tub of inhibitor in the heating system, make sure that's topped
up, if you really want to go into things specially
you can drain the system out and flush it all
through and all that sort of thing.

But really, for most DIYs,
what we've just done there should be by far like what
you need to do to make sure the heating system's okay. Now, all you need to do is
turn your thermostat right up. Turn your programmer on
to "heating constant" , and obviously turn the hot
water on if that's on as well. And then, you should find
the valve opens, the pump cuts in and works okay, and
all the radiator's getting lovely and warm as well. So there we go. As if I was going to
finish off a video without giving Mr. G a nice big gut scrub.

I hope that video has given
you a better idea of the small little checks you can
run through to make sure the heating system's going to be okay. And make sure that it's
going to work alright. Obviously, if you've
got any problems or you need any more information,
then contact us on the comments section below this video. Please share this video
with your mates as well on Facebook and Twitter or wherever. Or you can also follow
us at our Facebook Page. I'm leaving a link to that right now. And also there's a link
to it in the description of the video below. So, if you go through a quick
run of what we've done there, We've made sure that all
the radiators are working and that they're balanced out. We've made sure there's
no air in the system, and if there is, we've
topped the water up, and also we've put a
little bit of inhibitor in as well if we needed to. We've made sure that our
pump is not seized up, and that it nicely runs and wheels around.

And we've also made sure that
the two port or three port valves that we were looking at, all the motors work okay, and the valve bodies are free and clear and ready to use. Obviously if you do find that you've got any problems, then call
a qualified plumber in to come and sort it out for you. Don't try and do anything
more than that if you're not happy doing it.

So, anyway, I hope you've
enjoyed this video, I'll see you in our next video which is an Ask the plumber video, With all the plumbing
disasters that you guys send us in on a daily
basis at our Facebook page. Remember, if you've got
any photos or videos, or anything like that, send them through to us for our perusal.

And you never know, you
might win a sticker and a scrub from Mr. G. Anyway, I'll see you in our next video, and remember everyone,
what are you going to do? You've got to hold tight. See you later. Plumberparts.co.uk Honest Reviews and Advice. Come here. Don't Don't! Awww. George!.

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