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S Plan Heating Systems and 2 Port Valves – Plumbing Tips

– We all have dreams. Some of them are nightmares,
some of them aren't. But then suddenly, out of
nowhere, you wake up and I arrive like a bolt out of the blue to tell you about today's
plumberparts.co.uk video. We're gonna look at S Plan systems today and the 2 port valve that's absolutely integral in an S Plan system.

So get ready for the wildest
journey of your plumbing life. Let's just go. So an S Plan heating system is just another way of controlling where hot water goes from the boiler. It can either go to the
indirect hot water coil on the cylinder to heat hot water up that's gonna come out the taps, or it can be diverted
off to heating radiators or you can have another
valve that diverts off to underfloor heating or even another zone for another radiator, all
individually controlled by different thermostats and time clocks.

Today we're gonna look
at the very simplest type of S Plan that you can have. That is, we've got one valve here that goes off to the hot water cylinder and one valve here that
goes off to the radiators. But before we start, as ever, don't do any work on electrics if you're not happy and competent and you don't
have an electrical tester.

Always make sure everything's turned off. Always, before you remove a
wire or anything like that test and make sure it's dead, okay? Because otherwise that how you'll end up. Dead! First, let's have a little
wee look at the electrics. So with this cover off, here. Now as you can see,
sometimes you'll go to places and the wiring's just bonkers. You know, look at that, you might think, "God, where does everything go?" But if you isolate each one
like we did on the 3 Port system that I showed you a few
weeks ago in the videos, we'll be able to find out
where to remove each wire and where to put the new
one in for the new valve.

Get yourself a bit of paper
and write down everything, every colour, and what block it goes to, and where it runs off to, okay? Now, there is a common principle
with all control valves, that they need to be open and
signal the boiler only once they're open to tell the
boiler and the pump to come on. If that wasn't there, the boiler and pump could come on with the valves shut and have nowhere to dissipate their heat, could crack boiler
sections and cause leaks and basically a whole hubbub of hell. Fortunately, all the manufacturers
have thought of this, so when you do your wiring, you have your earth, your neutral, then you have a live
feed to the motor itself so when the thermostat calls for heat and everything it will send a live to this and the motor will motor around, and then it has two wires left.

Now, it's a switch,
basically, that's all it is. There'll always be a
constant live to this. This is why when you need to test for electrics in these things you need to be careful and make sure
the constant permanent live is dead, cause it's a switched live. The only way you'll ever do that is to wire set the whole system electronically by turning it off and removing the fuse. Now, you have the live supply, you have the permanent
live comin' in on one wire. When the valve opens up, it touches a smaller marker switch and sends a live back down this wire to the boiler and the pump
to tell them to come on. It's the same on all these valves, okay? Sometimes the wires on
different valves are different colours, but
generally nowadays they've tried to make them so they're all the same so it's easier for you to change.

If it is different, have
a little look at the book that was supplied with the valve and make sure the wires go
in the right place, then. Let's have a look at this
S Plant system in situ. We'll also describe that
at the office in a second. We have our boiler flow coming from here. It goes up there, just
across the top to the pump, which you can see just here, and then it comes down to this T here. Now it can either go off by this valve, off to the hot water cylinder
to heat the hot water or by the faulty valve that we're removing to the heating system. That's basically how
an S Plan system works. They're generally
controlled by a programmer and a series of thermostats. The good thing about an S Plan system is you can have as many
different zones as you like. So you can have, as I said, underfloor, different radiator zones,
different cylinder zones, things like that, which
make it a lot easier to control the services in your home.

Let's just have a quick
look, schematically, about how these systems work. Imagine we have our boiler here, with our pump flowing
water in that direction. And then we have our
two 2 Port valves here that open and close and send off water either to the radiators and
then back to the boiler, or to a hot water coil in a
hot water tank and then back. The great thing about these systems is you can have more zones that go off to different services
elsewhere and then back. That's the best thing
about an S Plan system, is that you can add things to them. And also, if there's
any problems with them, they're a lot easier to fix, 'cause you can put your
hand on that particular zone and think, "Well that's
the one that's cold.

"There's a problem with that." Also, to give you a better
idea of the electrics, we're just gonna consider the live here 'cause obviously
everything's got a neutral so we'll forget about them. So we have our live coming
into our programmer. After that, before it even
gets to the programmer, we'll take off a live,
which is a permanent live. When we look at our
valve, this permanent live just goes onto a switch
and that will feed off directly to the pump and to the boiler. That switch only ever makes
when the valve is open. So a motor open, and then click on. So how does the valve know when to open? Let's have a look at it as if the hot water cylinder is calling for heat. So, the programmer says
at this particular time that the hot water cylinder should be on. So that sends a live to the thermostat, which is effectively a switch on the side of the hot water cylinder. When that makes, it sends a live back to the motor on the valve.

That motor then motors open
and separately switches that live there that turns
the pump and the boiler on. That's how it works. The only difference between
this and a room system is the fact that a room
has a room thermostat instead of a cylinder thermostat. And that's exactly the
same way that it would work for underfloor heating, radiators,
and hot water cylinders. I hope you found today's
video informative. If you think we missed anything out, or you think that we didn't
quite cover it properly or anything like that, do let us know. As ever, favourite and
subscribe to our videos. Thanks for watching, guys,
and I'll see y'all later. Plumberparts.co.uk.
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Plumberparts.co.uk, honest reviews and tips Hold tight! And welcome to today's Plumberparts.co.uk video that's all about how to remove And the airlock of the coolant If you have followed all the other steps that we have on our channel on how to get access You go radiator, you have done your TRV, then you have done balancing system, you have changed the pump Speed, you've done everything and it's still running you probably don't have to You find it's got airlock on going into that radiator or that chain of radiators if They still don't work if you have not all of those things you probably want to give First try them because you need reasonably good knowledge and steel balls To be able to actually do this a certain thing.

Click on the link so this is what appears now That will take you to thats HUB radiators got loads of all of the videos About radiators. Let's take a look at how we're going to remove this lock now. You're going to need a Hose. As I said you are going to need a big nerve! And after that Hopefully they can get moving and spot. Hold tight! So we did everything we could on this system and on this cooler It's still not getting hot Now this can also work for saying three or four rads that are not getting hot on some Leg, so always on hand to know how to do it.

So the first thing we do is be it in The pressure system or whether the tank it's feeding from the loft is that we turn off the valve on Every end. This is the first thing we do. Get yourself next Bleed the main coolant like this one. A little tip for you if you get one like this Get yourself a file and a file taper off because it gets really annoying. I put a little mark on mine up I'm not losing. Although I am probably still going to. A small Tupperware basin and possibly a piece of cloth And just dispel the pressure of the coolant. Right once you finish that drain and you have dissipated the pressure from the coolant Get a hose so it will go a normal hose size of 15mm like This one here For 1/2 inch male thread. Some radiators will have a built-in thread just for the nipple to bleed If you got it one of those you wouldn't be able to do so. So once you've got that ready. Get a little PTFE PTFEand get around it After that remove your nipple bleed screw into this take out of your hose.

Be right next to it I was on guard and then I take this off. It should come loose and be under a towel Something to catch a small amount of water As soon as this comes out you should be able to feel it if you tap it a little. OK that will come now and just loose Quick change a little over like that. See that? How fast was that? Like a cat! Even quick, I can't believe myself sometimes! If you don't think you've got a good enough connection between your faucet and your hose or nipple As we call it Get yourself a jubilee clip and wrap that round there to tighten up and that up. Before we move on to the next bit I recommend you turn all of your heating system off You go to either port two or three port fuses, and if you know how, latch Then open, you will find the little arm on there – the latch can only be opened.

Also if You've got a squeeze system Make sure you've got a reasonable amount of pressure in that natural home It will be one to one and a half bar If you need to know how to top the page, look at our site Pressure on heating video systems and also if you've got a tank fed from Loft make sure that the ball valve drops nicely down and has not been stuck in so that they can get in Sometimes stuck This will not allow more water into the system. Once you've done that, you are Ready to do the next bit cleansed by air From the flow side and all return coolant. What we're going now not Is the flush side You will not believe how easy this is to do. All you have to do is unlock The radiator is above. You'll hear air and water rushing out of this big hole we've now done Got here Instead of this tiny little hole you used to be here. I will let any that air out. Now if you sometimes have a heating system You could already turn on open this valve and feel the hot water coming through.

As soon as you feel the hot water coming through you are pretty much guaranteed that you have Probably removed the lock. Now hopefully this system here no longer has any airlocks in it. So we probably won't hear much of the air coming out But I'm going to open it anyway, and you never know what you might get. Hmm, I got a little in there! Turn it off looks like it has cleared now and it's very warm as well Thus we will not close that and then sign the other party. So we've closed that TRV at the other end and bled that little bit of air now and we're going to just do that Side shield lock.

A few drops of air there. That would come through nice and warm now, thats great. So right now we've been purging and flushing the opposite side of air. From the air We've got warm water coming through each of these ends. What do I need you to do right now Close each of these valves. The pressure will dissipate automatically from your hose So you don't have to worry about that. Remove your faucet, then put it back in your main bleed air. Once You have done so make sure that the system has either topped itself again up and f Tank E Or top it up with a special pressure ring like filling we described in our pressure Video heating. Before we finish because now you've likely successfully obtained your radiator gone I was happy Larry, and there are some things you don't need to think about why air I got in the system or in that radiator. One reason number is that there is enough not to mind in the system Mineral water will interact with radiators inside And create hydrogen. Cause number 2 and you've got an automatic air vent that is very close to suction The side of the pump can sometimes be tempted to suck air through an air vent.

The number of three tubes is your reason being expansion on the wrong side of the pump. Sometimes you'll be able to put your thumb on expanding tubes and see he's sucking on your The thumb. The fourth reason is to set the pump speed too high. Now it may sound crazy but if there is not Enough water is delivered to the impeller pump, that is, not enough Suction. Then the different pressures between suction and side discharge The pump impeller is such that the water causes the ability to cavitation. If you want to know more about cavitation just go online because I can not be bothered Go into it now but all you need to know is that it does not create air and that It can create airlocks. So make sure the pump speed is in the correct setting. I hope you found the video today useful I hope if we haven't covered anything you are going to tell us and let us know ever Follow us on Twitter, Facebook.

Give us love by site on plumberparts . co.uk If this video did not help, click on this link and return to the radiator HUB. Maybe you'll find a video out there that you can Help you I see you very soon all guys and I hope once again that you hold TIGHT all night long! BRAPP TING! Plumberparts.co.uk Honest reviews and advice.

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