S Plan Heating Systems and 2 Port Valves – Plumbing Tips

– We all have dreams. Some of them are nightmares,
some of them aren't. But then suddenly, out of
nowhere, you wake up and I arrive like a bolt out of the blue to tell you about today's
plumberparts.co.uk video. We're gonna look at S Plan systems today and the 2 port valve that's absolutely integral in an S Plan system.

So get ready for the wildest
journey of your plumbing life. Let's just go. So an S Plan heating system is just another way of controlling where hot water goes from the boiler. It can either go to the
indirect hot water coil on the cylinder to heat hot water up that's gonna come out the taps, or it can be diverted
off to heating radiators or you can have another
valve that diverts off to underfloor heating or even another zone for another radiator, all
individually controlled by different thermostats and time clocks.

Today we're gonna look
at the very simplest type of S Plan that you can have. That is, we've got one valve here that goes off to the hot water cylinder and one valve here that
goes off to the radiators. But before we start, as ever, don't do any work on electrics if you're not happy and competent and you don't
have an electrical tester.

Always make sure everything's turned off. Always, before you remove a
wire or anything like that test and make sure it's dead, okay? Because otherwise that how you'll end up. Dead! First, let's have a little
wee look at the electrics. So with this cover off, here. Now as you can see,
sometimes you'll go to places and the wiring's just bonkers. You know, look at that, you might think, "God, where does everything go?" But if you isolate each one
like we did on the 3 Port system that I showed you a few
weeks ago in the videos, we'll be able to find out
where to remove each wire and where to put the new
one in for the new valve.

Get yourself a bit of paper
and write down everything, every colour, and what block it goes to, and where it runs off to, okay? Now, there is a common principle
with all control valves, that they need to be open and
signal the boiler only once they're open to tell the
boiler and the pump to come on. If that wasn't there, the boiler and pump could come on with the valves shut and have nowhere to dissipate their heat, could crack boiler
sections and cause leaks and basically a whole hubbub of hell. Fortunately, all the manufacturers
have thought of this, so when you do your wiring, you have your earth, your neutral, then you have a live
feed to the motor itself so when the thermostat calls for heat and everything it will send a live to this and the motor will motor around, and then it has two wires left.

Now, it's a switch,
basically, that's all it is. There'll always be a
constant live to this. This is why when you need to test for electrics in these things you need to be careful and make sure
the constant permanent live is dead, cause it's a switched live. The only way you'll ever do that is to wire set the whole system electronically by turning it off and removing the fuse. Now, you have the live supply, you have the permanent
live comin' in on one wire. When the valve opens up, it touches a smaller marker switch and sends a live back down this wire to the boiler and the pump
to tell them to come on. It's the same on all these valves, okay? Sometimes the wires on
different valves are different colours, but
generally nowadays they've tried to make them so they're all the same so it's easier for you to change.

If it is different, have
a little look at the book that was supplied with the valve and make sure the wires go
in the right place, then. Let's have a look at this
S Plant system in situ. We'll also describe that
at the office in a second. We have our boiler flow coming from here. It goes up there, just
across the top to the pump, which you can see just here, and then it comes down to this T here. Now it can either go off by this valve, off to the hot water cylinder
to heat the hot water or by the faulty valve that we're removing to the heating system. That's basically how
an S Plan system works. They're generally
controlled by a programmer and a series of thermostats. The good thing about an S Plan system is you can have as many
different zones as you like. So you can have, as I said, underfloor, different radiator zones,
different cylinder zones, things like that, which
make it a lot easier to control the services in your home.

Let's just have a quick
look, schematically, about how these systems work. Imagine we have our boiler here, with our pump flowing
water in that direction. And then we have our
two 2 Port valves here that open and close and send off water either to the radiators and
then back to the boiler, or to a hot water coil in a
hot water tank and then back. The great thing about these systems is you can have more zones that go off to different services
elsewhere and then back. That's the best thing
about an S Plan system, is that you can add things to them. And also, if there's
any problems with them, they're a lot easier to fix, 'cause you can put your
hand on that particular zone and think, "Well that's
the one that's cold.

"There's a problem with that." Also, to give you a better
idea of the electrics, we're just gonna consider the live here 'cause obviously
everything's got a neutral so we'll forget about them. So we have our live coming
into our programmer. After that, before it even
gets to the programmer, we'll take off a live,
which is a permanent live. When we look at our
valve, this permanent live just goes onto a switch
and that will feed off directly to the pump and to the boiler. That switch only ever makes
when the valve is open. So a motor open, and then click on. So how does the valve know when to open? Let's have a look at it as if the hot water cylinder is calling for heat. So, the programmer says
at this particular time that the hot water cylinder should be on. So that sends a live to the thermostat, which is effectively a switch on the side of the hot water cylinder. When that makes, it sends a live back to the motor on the valve.

That motor then motors open
and separately switches that live there that turns
the pump and the boiler on. That's how it works. The only difference between
this and a room system is the fact that a room
has a room thermostat instead of a cylinder thermostat. And that's exactly the
same way that it would work for underfloor heating, radiators,
and hot water cylinders. I hope you found today's
video informative. If you think we missed anything out, or you think that we didn't
quite cover it properly or anything like that, do let us know. As ever, favourite and
subscribe to our videos. Thanks for watching, guys,
and I'll see y'all later. Plumberparts.co.uk.
Honest reviews and advice..

As found on YouTube


– Hi, guys, James here
from plumberparts.co.uk. Today we're going to be having a look at deaeration devices. We're gonna be doing a few videos on these over the next few weeks. This particular one
here is pretty much used on gravity-fed systems in the UK. They're a very, very common
type in this country, but there are types of way
that you can deaerate a system. We thought we'd start with
the basic version first, okay? So we're gonna look at
this little beast here. Please do subscribe to
our videos on YouTube and also follow us on Twitter and Facebook where we have very
active accounts as well. And you can even follow us on Snapchat. But before we begin, remember, there's one thing y'all gotta do, that's hold tight.

– [Voiceover] Plumberparts.co.uk, home of Find Your Plumber. – Come on, sorry, it's
brass monkeys out here. I don't know if you can
actually see my breath, but it's freezing cold, and being English, I've got
a lovely brew on as well, so that's always good. So, then we're gonna have a
quick look at one of these.

This is not gonna be a very long video 'cause these are really,
really simple bits of kit. We saw one of these a
few days ago on a job, and I just filmed it
quickly on my camera phone. We'll add that into this
video somewhere along the way, so you can actually
see what it is in situ, but I thought, well, tell you what, they're really, really cheap, let's go see the suppliers, buy one, and then show you exactly how they work. So, what these do is
basically deaerate any air out of the system water of a heating system. Now, it's very important
to not have any air at all in a heating system, or at
least to a complete minimum, because it affects how
the heating system runs.

It can get airlocks, problems with flow, it can upset radiators, pumps, boilers, it's just bad news, so we
don't want it in there. So used in conjunction
with a decent inhibitor in the heating system,
which is gonna stop you from creating air in the first place, we're gonna get one of these in as well and instal that on the system to make sure that any air that's in the heating system
can leave it nice and easily.

So, let's have a quick
look at what this is. So here we go, this is
basically our beast here. Now, to show this installed
in the proper way, what we'll do, we'll draw a
little diagram in a minute, but first thing's I wanna show you is how simple these are on the inside. Firstly, I don't know if you can see that, but you should easily be
able to just see in there right at the moment, right? So first things first, you can see light through this pipe here going in, you should be able to see a little bit of light
going in there as well.

So what we're trying to say is there's no hidden secrets in this particular deaeration device. All this is, is a little
tub, like the size of a cup, with a pipe in here, a pipe out there, and a pipe up out of here. So that's it, they're simple. But James, how do they
actually deaerate the system? And where do they fit in the system? Well, it's a very, very
good question, Tarquin.

What these do, let's
get the old board out, oh man, this has been on here a while. Nothing that a bit of
spit can't fix though. So let's lay our beast on here, and we'll draw the system out around it. So this is generally how these work, we can have our flow coming up here from the boiler, that's
gonna go in here like so, like that, flow coming
in here nice and hot.

Now this pipe here is
our expansion pipe, okay? Now some people also
will tear feed into this, which is a little bit naughty, but there are other versions of this that we're gonna show you in a minute on the actual site that has the feed built into this whole unit. So you have the expansion there, so that's where our air is gonna go in a minute with any luck, and then we have our feed out, and generally what that
will go into is the pump, and then off to whatever you've got, your two-port valves, or
your three-port valves, so that's it, okay? So the idea is, you've got air coming up
here that we don't want.

This is in the moment when
you fill the system up. I mean, usually, once
these have done their job, they just sit there and
just allow for expansion. Now the thing is it's very difficult for us to get rid of air
out of a heating system if it's just rushing through a small pipe 'cause it's staying at a high speed, really quick, just flying through, and if we've got a vent that's just a T or something like that, say we T a little vent in there, it's not gonna have the chance. It's gonna rush past, and
we're gonna miss a lot of air, and that's gonna carry on
into the heating system and out of the way, so we're gonna expect it
get up our expansion pipe. So how do we slow that water down without actually slowing it down, if you see what I mean? So what we do, we expand
the amount of area that that water's in. So, we've got this size here, this is the size of pipe we've got here, just like that at the moment, that's the size of area, okay? But we introduce it to
this large area here, this is a larger area.

See, it's like a water break that doesn't reduce the
flow around the system. So you've got this water break here, the water just sits in here, and it has just a few seconds
to sort of swirl about and then go off back out. And in those few seconds
that it's in there, it can get rid of its
air up this pipe here, and up to the expansion,
and out of the way. That's all this is doing here. So, so simple. So we have this air comes in, rushes in, it's kinda slowed down a bit, we get rid of it up here, air out of there, so
our flow can go off here round the system and be
completely deaerated, and you notice you put
the pump on this side, that's so the pump isn't
affected by any air, so it's deaerated water coming in. Sometimes you might have an issue with the expansion pipe. If the crook's not high enough, it's gonna suck a little
bit of air down here. But hopefully, because of this break here, that's not gonna happen.

You can instal the pump here if you like, but to be honest, most companies don't
recommend that you do that. So, there you go. You now know how one of these little deaeration devices works. Let's just pop over to
that little video I did on my mobile phone a few days
ago where we actually saw one in situ, have a look at this. So guys, sorry about the
lack of film quality, but I'm on the old phone camera here at the moment on site. Now as you can see,
what we've got up here, we've got the boiler mag that's kind of on the flow from the boiler, which isn't really great.

But this is the flow up here, have a look at that, and then we've got our
expansion pipe just there, so any water, any air,
coming up here will escape up that expansion pipe up to the tank before it gets to this pump. We've got the feed pipe back down from the tank just there, so that's exactly what this does, it's kind of a break. But for now, I've got to fill this lot up. My brew is getting cold now, thanks for that, by the
way, Jim, uh, James, me? Thanks, me. Mate, I've got a bit of a cough. So now you know what that
weird bulbous thing is sitting in your heating system
in your airing cupboard, like, what's that doing there? What does it do, do I really need it? If it's there, leave it there, okay? You can get problems with the feeds, where the feed joins into these.

You'll know if there's a problem because if you start
draining the system down, you'll notice that the ball valve in the F&E tank doesn't drop, and that's one of the most annoying things for a plumber, especially if you think, oh, I'm just gonna go to this quick job and change a radiator for someone, you start draining the system, and you don't hear the
ball valve start running, you know you've got a blocked feed pipe to the system, usually
it's just blocked up with sludge and poo because the system wasn't
inhibited properly.

And then, effectively, some guys will try and back blast it out using the cold feed, the actual cold mains from downstairs, like a tap, and then put
it on the radiator spigot. But a lot of blokes, to be honest, do the right thing and just cut out the bit of pipe that's blocked, try and stuff a screwdriver and actually get rid
of the debris that way. Ooh, anyway, I hope you've
enjoyed today's video. I hope it's given you a better idea about how these little beasts work, about how you can deaerate the system. There are many other ways of doing it. We're gonna look into automatic air vents and pressurised systems as well. I mean, you can have automatic air vents on unvented systems as well, there's nothing wrong with that.

It's just when you're near the pump, especially if you put the air vent on the suction side of the pump, you can get problems with the air vent like float dropping and
actually sucking air into the heating system. It's quite rare, but it does happen. So there's a few little different things that can go wrong, but it's so important that the
system is deaerated properly.

So, again, I hope you've
enjoyed today's video. I hope you've learnt a little bit more about how you can deaerate your system. Please do subscribe to this video by clicking on the link that's appearing right
now in cards, thank you, and please do follow us
on Twitter and Facebook because if you're not, then you're missing
out on stuff like this. (mournful music) Hello, my name's James
from plumberparts.co.uk, and I'm here today to ask you to donate just one or two turns, or at least a bit of thought, to your drain cocks this winter.

There are millions of
neglected drain cocks throughout the UK. And drain cocks like George, John. Also, we've got a lot
of new videos coming up. We're gonna be doing videos on how to, first, fix a heating system, and also a hot and cold system through timber frame. We're gonna be showing you how to lay shower trays, how to instal toilets, how to instal vanity units, do all the pipe work underneath. We've got a big project on at the moment, and that goes without saying as well, we've got the oil boiler to put in here at the shed for the little
office that we've got, and I think that's gonna be
a really good opportunity for us to show you how to different types of heating system work, we can just draw it out on the wall, and that'll give some of you apprentices a good idea about how S-plan and Y-plan heating systems work, how they're laid out, why there are certain components, where they are in the system because it's all laid out
in the same way mostly throughout the house, and if it's not, then sometimes it's not
gonna work properly.

Have a great week, guys. If you need any more help,
any more information, please comment in the
comments section below, and have a lovely time. See you soon, guys, hold tight! – [Voiceover] Plumberparts.co.uk, home of Find your Plumber..

As found on YouTube


– [Host] George says if
you've been lucky enough to stumble across this
plumberparts.co.uk video trying to find out about
what to do when you're first turning your heating
system on, then great. You're going to find out
all the information you need in the next few seconds. But first, George would like
to tell you to subscribe to our videos because we do
lots of plumbing help every week.

Don't we, George? Don't run away moody cat. Since George can't be
bothered to talk to me, I hope you find out the
information you need. And remember everyone, to hold tight. Plumberparts.co.uk Honest
reviews and advice. Hold tight and welcome to
this Plumberparts.co.uk video. My name's James and today
we're here to have a very quick look through the little
checklist that you should do when you turn on your heating
system for the first time after a balmy British
summer of rain and sort of twenty degrees, you know
when it's just not very nice. The temperature outside at
the moment has dropped down like below zero degrees or
whatever and it is getting cold. So, people are thinking about turning on their heating systems. If you're hard, and you
haven't turned it on yet, and you just put another jumper on. If you're like me, you're
thinking about wacking on your heating now And this is basically a
brief checklist of the things you should do.

Anyway, I'm going to divide
the checklist into two things. Firstly, just the really simple stuff. Any kind of house I know
what DIY can do with really simple tools. And then the slightly more advanced bit. Don't get me wrong, it's
not really, really difficult but you sort of need
slightly a bit more knowledge or, you know, cojones
to have a look at the certain things we're going to do. So, firstly, let me just go
over the really really basic start bits. I hope you enjoy the video. And I hope you subscribe. And I hope that you hold tight. So, number one on your
list of things to do is to get yourself a little
radiator bleeding key like the one I've got here. There are a few different types. And just go around each one
of your radiators in the house and bleed the air out of
the top of the radiator. You're probably going to
find there's not a lot of air or there's none at all.

I mean, that's brilliant. It means the heating
system's been well-inhibited, which is a treatment you
put in the water to stop air happening. If you do have loads of air, might be a good idea to
give your plumber a quick call once you've got
all the heating working. And just say, mate, can you
pop around and wack some inhibitor in the heating system. Or, you can click on the link
that's appearing now that will show you how to put inhibitor
in your heating system. We've also left a link to
that in the description below. So the usual way to bleed
a radiator is to make sure that both valves at each end
of the radiator are fully open. And then, grab your radiator
bleed key and just open that. Open the key up. You'll see which end it is
on the nice cross end here. Just open that up like that. And as you can see, we've
got water coming out here straightaway. Once you've bled any
air out of the radiator, the next thing you're going
to need to do is get a pair of grips.

Remove the radiator
TRV, if you've got one. And then use the grips to
wiggle the pin underneath the TRV and make sure that that's free. Once you've done that, go
to the lock shield end, which is the other end of
the TRV on the radiator. Completely close the lock
shield by turning it clockwise. And then give it half a turn
to three quarters of a turn anti-clockwise, and
that radiator is set up and ready to use. Do that to every radiator
in the house and then we can move on to the next
(mumbles) we need to do before turning your heating system on. So once you've got that
done, obviously, you know if you're letting water
out of the radiators, if you haven't got an F
and E tank in the loft, which will automatically
refill the heating system, then, you're going to need
to use the fitting lube on the boiler or on the
pressurized kit to just top up the water level in the heating system.

If you're not happy doing
this bit, then get a plumber in for you. I mean, it is really, really
easy and I've left a link in the video description below as well as how to pressurize
a heating system as well, we're using that method. So, the next thing you'll
do is go to your room thermostat. If you've got one like
this, make sure it clicks (clicking sound) Yeah, clicky click click.

So make sure that that's working. And then really we're at
the end of the beginner's department, okay. You've gone around every radiator. You've effectively done
a thing called balance the system, whereby you've shut down
the lock shields and just cracked them open a little bit. What that does is evenly
distribute flow throughout the whole heating system, so all
the radiators get nicely warm. We've made sure that the
TRVs aren't stuck shut because sometimes they can
be shut for the hold of the summer, and then not spring on again.

And also, we've made sure
that there's no air in the heating system. The next few things I'm
going to show you are very very simple. Before you turn the heating system on, it's very important that, number one, you know that
the pump has got water in it. If you can get to it. And also that the pump empeller
inside is nice and free. And then secondly, if
you've got any zone valves, either two port or three port
valves, just use the lever arm on them to make sure that
the valve body is completely free. I'll show you how to do
those bits right now. Alright, so I just so happens
I've got a nice little pump like this just hanging about.

I've taken it out of an hold house. A real old Grundfos, this one is here. But most of the pumps are the same. A lot of the time now the pumps
are self (mumbles) and you won't have a knot on
the end of it like this. But, if you've got a knot on the end of it like this one here, it
can't hurt just to whip this knot off using a large slotted
screwdriver like the one we've got here. You're going to get a little
bit of water come out of here, so you might need a
little towel or something like that. And then inside you've
got the actual end of the impeller. We pop our screwdriver in
there and as you can see we can wiggle around the
impeller on the inside. So now we know that the
pump's going to be free and it isn't going to seize
up and burn the pump out when we turn the power on. What we do, once we've done
that, is is just pop our little nipple back on
here and tighten that up.

So the next and slightly
more advanced thing is where after we looked at
the pump is to make sure all the two port and three port valves are motoring okay. Really really simple to do. You can either grab the lever on the end. Most different manufacturers
of two port and three port valve have a motor
on the end as well, so you can have a look at that. And if you really, really
want to go into it, you can unscrew the little screw at the end. Make sure the power's off of course.

Which it should be because we haven't turned the heating system on yet. And you've got a little screw in here that undoes just like so. And you've got a little
screw on the other side here that undoes. Then, you'll be able to pull off the head without having to drain anything down. You can only do that, especially with these Honeywells, with a head that's got a dimple on it. But every other top manufacturer, Drayton, Morrison, Danfoss, there's loads of them. All of their heads can come
off pretty much without having to drain anything down. And then, you've got the
actual valve body here, just make sure that that's
nice and free and easy to move as well. And there we go. That's lovely there. And we know that's working okay. And we know that the
motor alright on here. Now once you've done all those checks, I always advise that
if you want to pop half a tub of inhibitor in the heating system, make sure that's topped
up, if you really want to go into things specially
you can drain the system out and flush it all
through and all that sort of thing.

But really, for most DIYs,
what we've just done there should be by far like what
you need to do to make sure the heating system's okay. Now, all you need to do is
turn your thermostat right up. Turn your programmer on
to "heating constant" , and obviously turn the hot
water on if that's on as well. And then, you should find
the valve opens, the pump cuts in and works okay, and
all the radiator's getting lovely and warm as well. So there we go. As if I was going to
finish off a video without giving Mr. G a nice big gut scrub.

I hope that video has given
you a better idea of the small little checks you can
run through to make sure the heating system's going to be okay. And make sure that it's
going to work alright. Obviously, if you've
got any problems or you need any more information,
then contact us on the comments section below this video. Please share this video
with your mates as well on Facebook and Twitter or wherever. Or you can also follow
us at our Facebook Page. I'm leaving a link to that right now. And also there's a link
to it in the description of the video below. So, if you go through a quick
run of what we've done there, We've made sure that all
the radiators are working and that they're balanced out. We've made sure there's
no air in the system, and if there is, we've
topped the water up, and also we've put a
little bit of inhibitor in as well if we needed to. We've made sure that our
pump is not seized up, and that it nicely runs and wheels around.

And we've also made sure that
the two port or three port valves that we were looking at, all the motors work okay, and the valve bodies are free and clear and ready to use. Obviously if you do find that you've got any problems, then call
a qualified plumber in to come and sort it out for you. Don't try and do anything
more than that if you're not happy doing it.

So, anyway, I hope you've
enjoyed this video, I'll see you in our next video which is an Ask the plumber video, With all the plumbing
disasters that you guys send us in on a daily
basis at our Facebook page. Remember, if you've got
any photos or videos, or anything like that, send them through to us for our perusal.

And you never know, you
might win a sticker and a scrub from Mr. G. Anyway, I'll see you in our next video, and remember everyone,
what are you going to do? You've got to hold tight. See you later. Plumberparts.co.uk Honest Reviews and Advice. Come here. Don't Don't! Awww. George!.

As found on YouTube