Tag Archives: diy

19Jan/21

S Plan Heating Systems and 2 Port Valves – Plumbing Tips

– We all have dreams. Some of them are nightmares,
some of them aren't. But then suddenly, out of
nowhere, you wake up and I arrive like a bolt out of the blue to tell you about today's
plumberparts.co.uk video. We're gonna look at S Plan systems today and the 2 port valve that's absolutely integral in an S Plan system.

So get ready for the wildest
journey of your plumbing life. Let's just go. So an S Plan heating system is just another way of controlling where hot water goes from the boiler. It can either go to the
indirect hot water coil on the cylinder to heat hot water up that's gonna come out the taps, or it can be diverted
off to heating radiators or you can have another
valve that diverts off to underfloor heating or even another zone for another radiator, all
individually controlled by different thermostats and time clocks.

Today we're gonna look
at the very simplest type of S Plan that you can have. That is, we've got one valve here that goes off to the hot water cylinder and one valve here that
goes off to the radiators. But before we start, as ever, don't do any work on electrics if you're not happy and competent and you don't
have an electrical tester.

Always make sure everything's turned off. Always, before you remove a
wire or anything like that test and make sure it's dead, okay? Because otherwise that how you'll end up. Dead! First, let's have a little
wee look at the electrics. So with this cover off, here. Now as you can see,
sometimes you'll go to places and the wiring's just bonkers. You know, look at that, you might think, "God, where does everything go?" But if you isolate each one
like we did on the 3 Port system that I showed you a few
weeks ago in the videos, we'll be able to find out
where to remove each wire and where to put the new
one in for the new valve.

Get yourself a bit of paper
and write down everything, every colour, and what block it goes to, and where it runs off to, okay? Now, there is a common principle
with all control valves, that they need to be open and
signal the boiler only once they're open to tell the
boiler and the pump to come on. If that wasn't there, the boiler and pump could come on with the valves shut and have nowhere to dissipate their heat, could crack boiler
sections and cause leaks and basically a whole hubbub of hell. Fortunately, all the manufacturers
have thought of this, so when you do your wiring, you have your earth, your neutral, then you have a live
feed to the motor itself so when the thermostat calls for heat and everything it will send a live to this and the motor will motor around, and then it has two wires left.

Now, it's a switch,
basically, that's all it is. There'll always be a
constant live to this. This is why when you need to test for electrics in these things you need to be careful and make sure
the constant permanent live is dead, cause it's a switched live. The only way you'll ever do that is to wire set the whole system electronically by turning it off and removing the fuse. Now, you have the live supply, you have the permanent
live comin' in on one wire. When the valve opens up, it touches a smaller marker switch and sends a live back down this wire to the boiler and the pump
to tell them to come on. It's the same on all these valves, okay? Sometimes the wires on
different valves are different colours, but
generally nowadays they've tried to make them so they're all the same so it's easier for you to change.

If it is different, have
a little look at the book that was supplied with the valve and make sure the wires go
in the right place, then. Let's have a look at this
S Plant system in situ. We'll also describe that
at the office in a second. We have our boiler flow coming from here. It goes up there, just
across the top to the pump, which you can see just here, and then it comes down to this T here. Now it can either go off by this valve, off to the hot water cylinder
to heat the hot water or by the faulty valve that we're removing to the heating system. That's basically how
an S Plan system works. They're generally
controlled by a programmer and a series of thermostats. The good thing about an S Plan system is you can have as many
different zones as you like. So you can have, as I said, underfloor, different radiator zones,
different cylinder zones, things like that, which
make it a lot easier to control the services in your home.

Let's just have a quick
look, schematically, about how these systems work. Imagine we have our boiler here, with our pump flowing
water in that direction. And then we have our
two 2 Port valves here that open and close and send off water either to the radiators and
then back to the boiler, or to a hot water coil in a
hot water tank and then back. The great thing about these systems is you can have more zones that go off to different services
elsewhere and then back. That's the best thing
about an S Plan system, is that you can add things to them. And also, if there's
any problems with them, they're a lot easier to fix, 'cause you can put your
hand on that particular zone and think, "Well that's
the one that's cold.

"There's a problem with that." Also, to give you a better
idea of the electrics, we're just gonna consider the live here 'cause obviously
everything's got a neutral so we'll forget about them. So we have our live coming
into our programmer. After that, before it even
gets to the programmer, we'll take off a live,
which is a permanent live. When we look at our
valve, this permanent live just goes onto a switch
and that will feed off directly to the pump and to the boiler. That switch only ever makes
when the valve is open. So a motor open, and then click on. So how does the valve know when to open? Let's have a look at it as if the hot water cylinder is calling for heat. So, the programmer says
at this particular time that the hot water cylinder should be on. So that sends a live to the thermostat, which is effectively a switch on the side of the hot water cylinder. When that makes, it sends a live back to the motor on the valve.

That motor then motors open
and separately switches that live there that turns
the pump and the boiler on. That's how it works. The only difference between
this and a room system is the fact that a room
has a room thermostat instead of a cylinder thermostat. And that's exactly the
same way that it would work for underfloor heating, radiators,
and hot water cylinders. I hope you found today's
video informative. If you think we missed anything out, or you think that we didn't
quite cover it properly or anything like that, do let us know. As ever, favourite and
subscribe to our videos. Thanks for watching, guys,
and I'll see y'all later. Plumberparts.co.uk.
Honest reviews and advice..

As found on YouTube

04Jan/21

Installing the JG Speedfit Underfloor Heating Manifold

installing the manifold the manifold performs a number of functions primarily it distributes water from a central location to various rooms in the house a length of pipe was only limited capacity to carry heat so there is a limit to the effective length of a single pipe run circuit when you have a large room or the room is a long way from the manifold it may be necessary to use a number of circuits the number of outlets on the manifold will be dictated by the number of circuits it's feeding the JG manifold has our standard 15 millimeter push-fit connections for ease of use and enables the UK standard pipe size to be used as you can see we have an automatic air vent filled connection and on the bottom we have the drain connection on the opposite ends we have two isolated valves that flow is on top and the returned is connected to the bottom rail we have temporary decorator's caps on the bottom rail these are used for isolation and adjustment of the circuits and will be replaced by electrically operated actuators at the commissioning stage the actuators allow the user to control each room individually the flow meters on top of the manifold give a visual indication of the amount of water flowing through each circuit the amount of flow needed will depend on the length of the circuit and the temperature drop required generally the shorter the circuit the more restriction will be needed this is called balancing the system setting the flow is achieved by lifting the locking ring at the base of the flow meter and turning the adjusting nut the mixing valve the JG control unit comprises a pump and an adjustable blending valve at the bottom because the water is too hot to be fed into the floor unblended the manifold is coupled with a JG control unit the control pack is connected to the isolating valve on the manifold using the washers provided it performs a number of functions it blends high temperature water from the boiler with the water in the ufh system to maintain a designed temperature usually between fourteen sixty degrees depending on the application it also circulates water around the various ufh circuits be aware that this pump will not circulate to and from the boiler for difficult locations we have manifold elbows as well as manifold extensions fitting the manifold to the wall the manifold must be located as centrally as possible to the circuit is feeding allowing enough height to accommodate the installation and screed depth filling the manifold due to the large quantity of pipe work it's important to follow the correct procedures to minimize the amount of air in the system which can lead to problems with testing and operating the system open all flow gauges at the top of the manifold by lifting the locking cover and turning the adjuster anti-clockwise connect the fill points to a host pipe and the drain connection to a bucket or drain it's important to ensure the water is forced around the ufh loops one at a time to prevent short-circuiting from one manifold rail to the other first close all the decorators caps to isolate the circuits then starting at the furthest end of the manifold open only one of the decorators caps blush the water around the loop until all the air is purged close the cap and open the next circuit repeat the process until every circuit is purged when completed close the bottom valve shut off the water supply and close the top valve the system is now ready for pressure testing pressure testing the manifold turn off any electrical equipment isolate the manifold from the heating system by turning the ball valves to the off position open all flow gauges at the top of the manifold by lifting the locking cover and turning the adjuster anti-clockwise ensure all temporary adjuster heads are in the fully open position by turning anti-clockwise connect a suitable pressure testing kit to one of the fill valves with the valve open pump up the pressure to 2 bar isolate the pressure at the tester and leave for 10 minutes while checking for leaks or pressure drops if all is well increase the pressure to 10 bar and leave for a further 10 minutes while checking for leaks or pressure drops if all is well reduce pressure to operating pressure squee did floors should be left to approximately 6 bar until the screed has been laid and dried to protect pipe work from damage a variety of screens can be used such as sand cement or a flowing screed the screed is typically 50 to 65 millimeters thick when laying the screed care should be taken to ensure that the screed is compacted around the pipe properly most screed floors require 28 days after laying before pre heating can begin however calcium sulfate screens may need only seven days after laying check with the manufacturer for specific drying times under no circumstances should the ufh be used for speeding up the drying period if the ufh has been installed when there is a possibility of freezing conditions suitable antifreeze should be added to protect the pipe work the system will need to be flushed out and refilled prior to operation when turning on initially the temperature of the blending valve should be set to the lowest setting 25 to 30 degrees and run for two to three days before building up the temperature over the next couple of days you

As found on YouTube