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24 months Passion Free Debt 0% APR, or 3, 4, 5, 8 or one decade 9. 9% APR * 0 down payment alternatives readily available. Minumum car loan amount of 500 Cost of boiler Deposit Amount of credit history Repayable by 24 month-to-month repayments Overall expense of credit score Total repayable Agent APR 2379 0 2379 99.
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Obtaining a brand-new central heating boiler on financing might be an option for home owners searching for added versatility for their purchase *. Purchasing a boiler can be pricey, so if a one-off settlement isn’t an option for you, we can introduce you to our financing lending institution that might have the ability to analyze whether any various other finance choices are offered to you *.
With this offer, you may be able to avoid paying a down repayment for your new central heating boiler installment by funding the total cost of the central heating boiler and the installation spreading your repayments over a predetermined term *. HomeServe Subscription Minimal acts as a credit score broker, not a lending institution. The lender is Barclays Companion Money if you call for finance to promote your acquisition.
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0% Representative instance: Cash money Price = 3,082 with 300 deposit. Complete lending amount = 2,782. Repayable by 24 regular monthly payments of 115. 92. Overall fee for credit score = 0. Overall quantity repayable = 2,782. Rate of interest is 0% per annum taken care of. Representative APR 0% repaired. Topic to status. Rep example exact as at August 2020.
40 658 3037 9. 9% 9. 9% Depictive instance: Money Cost = 3,268 with 700 deposit. Total lending quantity = 2,568. Repayable by 60 regular monthly payments of 53. 90. Complete fee for credit score = 666. 26. Total quantity repayable = 3,234. 26. Rates of interest is 9. 9% per annum fixed.
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– We all have dreams. Some of them are nightmares,
some of them aren't. But then suddenly, out of
nowhere, you wake up and I arrive like a bolt out of the blue to tell you about today's
plumberparts.co.uk video. We're gonna look at S Plan systems today and the 2 port valve that's absolutely integral in an S Plan system.
So get ready for the wildest
journey of your plumbing life. Let's just go. So an S Plan heating system is just another way of controlling where hot water goes from the boiler. It can either go to the
indirect hot water coil on the cylinder to heat hot water up that's gonna come out the taps, or it can be diverted
off to heating radiators or you can have another
valve that diverts off to underfloor heating or even another zone for another radiator, all
individually controlled by different thermostats and time clocks.
Today we're gonna look
at the very simplest type of S Plan that you can have. That is, we've got one valve here that goes off to the hot water cylinder and one valve here that
goes off to the radiators. But before we start, as ever, don't do any work on electrics if you're not happy and competent and you don't
have an electrical tester.
Always make sure everything's turned off. Always, before you remove a
wire or anything like that test and make sure it's dead, okay? Because otherwise that how you'll end up. Dead! First, let's have a little
wee look at the electrics. So with this cover off, here. Now as you can see,
sometimes you'll go to places and the wiring's just bonkers. You know, look at that, you might think, "God, where does everything go?" But if you isolate each one
like we did on the 3 Port system that I showed you a few
weeks ago in the videos, we'll be able to find out
where to remove each wire and where to put the new
one in for the new valve.
Get yourself a bit of paper
and write down everything, every colour, and what block it goes to, and where it runs off to, okay? Now, there is a common principle
with all control valves, that they need to be open and
signal the boiler only once they're open to tell the
boiler and the pump to come on. If that wasn't there, the boiler and pump could come on with the valves shut and have nowhere to dissipate their heat, could crack boiler
sections and cause leaks and basically a whole hubbub of hell. Fortunately, all the manufacturers
have thought of this, so when you do your wiring, you have your earth, your neutral, then you have a live
feed to the motor itself so when the thermostat calls for heat and everything it will send a live to this and the motor will motor around, and then it has two wires left.
Now, it's a switch,
basically, that's all it is. There'll always be a
constant live to this. This is why when you need to test for electrics in these things you need to be careful and make sure
the constant permanent live is dead, cause it's a switched live. The only way you'll ever do that is to wire set the whole system electronically by turning it off and removing the fuse. Now, you have the live supply, you have the permanent
live comin' in on one wire. When the valve opens up, it touches a smaller marker switch and sends a live back down this wire to the boiler and the pump
to tell them to come on. It's the same on all these valves, okay? Sometimes the wires on
different valves are different colours, but
generally nowadays they've tried to make them so they're all the same so it's easier for you to change.
If it is different, have
a little look at the book that was supplied with the valve and make sure the wires go
in the right place, then. Let's have a look at this
S Plant system in situ. We'll also describe that
at the office in a second. We have our boiler flow coming from here. It goes up there, just
across the top to the pump, which you can see just here, and then it comes down to this T here. Now it can either go off by this valve, off to the hot water cylinder
to heat the hot water or by the faulty valve that we're removing to the heating system. That's basically how
an S Plan system works. They're generally
controlled by a programmer and a series of thermostats. The good thing about an S Plan system is you can have as many
different zones as you like. So you can have, as I said, underfloor, different radiator zones,
different cylinder zones, things like that, which
make it a lot easier to control the services in your home.
Let's just have a quick
look, schematically, about how these systems work. Imagine we have our boiler here, with our pump flowing
water in that direction. And then we have our
two 2 Port valves here that open and close and send off water either to the radiators and
then back to the boiler, or to a hot water coil in a
hot water tank and then back. The great thing about these systems is you can have more zones that go off to different services
elsewhere and then back. That's the best thing
about an S Plan system, is that you can add things to them. And also, if there's
any problems with them, they're a lot easier to fix, 'cause you can put your
hand on that particular zone and think, "Well that's
the one that's cold.
"There's a problem with that." Also, to give you a better
idea of the electrics, we're just gonna consider the live here 'cause obviously
everything's got a neutral so we'll forget about them. So we have our live coming
into our programmer. After that, before it even
gets to the programmer, we'll take off a live,
which is a permanent live. When we look at our
valve, this permanent live just goes onto a switch
and that will feed off directly to the pump and to the boiler. That switch only ever makes
when the valve is open. So a motor open, and then click on. So how does the valve know when to open? Let's have a look at it as if the hot water cylinder is calling for heat. So, the programmer says
at this particular time that the hot water cylinder should be on. So that sends a live to the thermostat, which is effectively a switch on the side of the hot water cylinder. When that makes, it sends a live back to the motor on the valve.
That motor then motors open
and separately switches that live there that turns
the pump and the boiler on. That's how it works. The only difference between
this and a room system is the fact that a room
has a room thermostat instead of a cylinder thermostat. And that's exactly the
same way that it would work for underfloor heating, radiators,
and hot water cylinders. I hope you found today's
video informative. If you think we missed anything out, or you think that we didn't
quite cover it properly or anything like that, do let us know. As ever, favourite and
subscribe to our videos. Thanks for watching, guys,
and I'll see y'all later. Plumberparts.co.uk.
Honest reviews and advice..
– Hi, guys, James here
from plumberparts.co.uk. Today we're going to be having a look at deaeration devices. We're gonna be doing a few videos on these over the next few weeks. This particular one
here is pretty much used on gravity-fed systems in the UK. They're a very, very common
type in this country, but there are types of way
that you can deaerate a system. We thought we'd start with
the basic version first, okay? So we're gonna look at
this little beast here. Please do subscribe to
our videos on YouTube and also follow us on Twitter and Facebook where we have very
active accounts as well. And you can even follow us on Snapchat. But before we begin, remember, there's one thing y'all gotta do, that's hold tight.
– [Voiceover] Plumberparts.co.uk, home of Find Your Plumber. – Come on, sorry, it's
brass monkeys out here. I don't know if you can
actually see my breath, but it's freezing cold, and being English, I've got
a lovely brew on as well, so that's always good. So, then we're gonna have a
quick look at one of these.
This is not gonna be a very long video 'cause these are really,
really simple bits of kit. We saw one of these a
few days ago on a job, and I just filmed it
quickly on my camera phone. We'll add that into this
video somewhere along the way, so you can actually
see what it is in situ, but I thought, well, tell you what, they're really, really cheap, let's go see the suppliers, buy one, and then show you exactly how they work. So, what these do is
basically deaerate any air out of the system water of a heating system. Now, it's very important
to not have any air at all in a heating system, or at
least to a complete minimum, because it affects how
the heating system runs.
It can get airlocks, problems with flow, it can upset radiators, pumps, boilers, it's just bad news, so we
don't want it in there. So used in conjunction
with a decent inhibitor in the heating system,
which is gonna stop you from creating air in the first place, we're gonna get one of these in as well and instal that on the system to make sure that any air that's in the heating system
can leave it nice and easily.
So, let's have a quick
look at what this is. So here we go, this is
basically our beast here. Now, to show this installed
in the proper way, what we'll do, we'll draw a
little diagram in a minute, but first thing's I wanna show you is how simple these are on the inside. Firstly, I don't know if you can see that, but you should easily be
able to just see in there right at the moment, right? So first things first, you can see light through this pipe here going in, you should be able to see a little bit of light
going in there as well.
So what we're trying to say is there's no hidden secrets in this particular deaeration device. All this is, is a little
tub, like the size of a cup, with a pipe in here, a pipe out there, and a pipe up out of here. So that's it, they're simple. But James, how do they
actually deaerate the system? And where do they fit in the system? Well, it's a very, very
good question, Tarquin.
What these do, let's
get the old board out, oh man, this has been on here a while. Nothing that a bit of
spit can't fix though. So let's lay our beast on here, and we'll draw the system out around it. So this is generally how these work, we can have our flow coming up here from the boiler, that's
gonna go in here like so, like that, flow coming
in here nice and hot.
Now this pipe here is
our expansion pipe, okay? Now some people also
will tear feed into this, which is a little bit naughty, but there are other versions of this that we're gonna show you in a minute on the actual site that has the feed built into this whole unit. So you have the expansion there, so that's where our air is gonna go in a minute with any luck, and then we have our feed out, and generally what that
will go into is the pump, and then off to whatever you've got, your two-port valves, or
your three-port valves, so that's it, okay? So the idea is, you've got air coming up
here that we don't want.
This is in the moment when
you fill the system up. I mean, usually, once
these have done their job, they just sit there and
just allow for expansion. Now the thing is it's very difficult for us to get rid of air
out of a heating system if it's just rushing through a small pipe 'cause it's staying at a high speed, really quick, just flying through, and if we've got a vent that's just a T or something like that, say we T a little vent in there, it's not gonna have the chance. It's gonna rush past, and
we're gonna miss a lot of air, and that's gonna carry on
into the heating system and out of the way, so we're gonna expect it
get up our expansion pipe. So how do we slow that water down without actually slowing it down, if you see what I mean? So what we do, we expand
the amount of area that that water's in. So, we've got this size here, this is the size of pipe we've got here, just like that at the moment, that's the size of area, okay? But we introduce it to
this large area here, this is a larger area.
See, it's like a water break that doesn't reduce the
flow around the system. So you've got this water break here, the water just sits in here, and it has just a few seconds
to sort of swirl about and then go off back out. And in those few seconds
that it's in there, it can get rid of its
air up this pipe here, and up to the expansion,
and out of the way. That's all this is doing here. So, so simple. So we have this air comes in, rushes in, it's kinda slowed down a bit, we get rid of it up here, air out of there, so
our flow can go off here round the system and be
completely deaerated, and you notice you put
the pump on this side, that's so the pump isn't
affected by any air, so it's deaerated water coming in. Sometimes you might have an issue with the expansion pipe. If the crook's not high enough, it's gonna suck a little
bit of air down here. But hopefully, because of this break here, that's not gonna happen.
You can instal the pump here if you like, but to be honest, most companies don't
recommend that you do that. So, there you go. You now know how one of these little deaeration devices works. Let's just pop over to
that little video I did on my mobile phone a few days
ago where we actually saw one in situ, have a look at this. So guys, sorry about the
lack of film quality, but I'm on the old phone camera here at the moment on site. Now as you can see,
what we've got up here, we've got the boiler mag that's kind of on the flow from the boiler, which isn't really great.
But this is the flow up here, have a look at that, and then we've got our
expansion pipe just there, so any water, any air,
coming up here will escape up that expansion pipe up to the tank before it gets to this pump. We've got the feed pipe back down from the tank just there, so that's exactly what this does, it's kind of a break. But for now, I've got to fill this lot up. My brew is getting cold now, thanks for that, by the
way, Jim, uh, James, me? Thanks, me. Mate, I've got a bit of a cough. So now you know what that
weird bulbous thing is sitting in your heating system
in your airing cupboard, like, what's that doing there? What does it do, do I really need it? If it's there, leave it there, okay? You can get problems with the feeds, where the feed joins into these.
You'll know if there's a problem because if you start
draining the system down, you'll notice that the ball valve in the F&E tank doesn't drop, and that's one of the most annoying things for a plumber, especially if you think, oh, I'm just gonna go to this quick job and change a radiator for someone, you start draining the system, and you don't hear the
ball valve start running, you know you've got a blocked feed pipe to the system, usually
it's just blocked up with sludge and poo because the system wasn't
And then, effectively, some guys will try and back blast it out using the cold feed, the actual cold mains from downstairs, like a tap, and then put
it on the radiator spigot. But a lot of blokes, to be honest, do the right thing and just cut out the bit of pipe that's blocked, try and stuff a screwdriver and actually get rid
of the debris that way. Ooh, anyway, I hope you've
enjoyed today's video. I hope it's given you a better idea about how these little beasts work, about how you can deaerate the system. There are many other ways of doing it. We're gonna look into automatic air vents and pressurised systems as well. I mean, you can have automatic air vents on unvented systems as well, there's nothing wrong with that.
It's just when you're near the pump, especially if you put the air vent on the suction side of the pump, you can get problems with the air vent like float dropping and
actually sucking air into the heating system. It's quite rare, but it does happen. So there's a few little different things that can go wrong, but it's so important that the
system is deaerated properly.
So, again, I hope you've
enjoyed today's video. I hope you've learnt a little bit more about how you can deaerate your system. Please do subscribe to this video by clicking on the link that's appearing right
now in cards, thank you, and please do follow us
on Twitter and Facebook because if you're not, then you're missing
out on stuff like this. (mournful music) Hello, my name's James
from plumberparts.co.uk, and I'm here today to ask you to donate just one or two turns, or at least a bit of thought, to your drain cocks this winter.
There are millions of
neglected drain cocks throughout the UK. And drain cocks like George, John. Also, we've got a lot
of new videos coming up. We're gonna be doing videos on how to, first, fix a heating system, and also a hot and cold system through timber frame. We're gonna be showing you how to lay shower trays, how to instal toilets, how to instal vanity units, do all the pipe work underneath. We've got a big project on at the moment, and that goes without saying as well, we've got the oil boiler to put in here at the shed for the little
office that we've got, and I think that's gonna be
a really good opportunity for us to show you how to different types of heating system work, we can just draw it out on the wall, and that'll give some of you apprentices a good idea about how S-plan and Y-plan heating systems work, how they're laid out, why there are certain components, where they are in the system because it's all laid out
in the same way mostly throughout the house, and if it's not, then sometimes it's not
gonna work properly.
Have a great week, guys. If you need any more help,
any more information, please comment in the
comments section below, and have a lovely time. See you soon, guys, hold tight! – [Voiceover] Plumberparts.co.uk, home of Find your Plumber..
hey guys Allen from hack gadgets here I've got a little device to my hand here we've all seen one of these you dial in the temperature you want and it turns you furnace on when it gets cold the issue with this thing is the location I want to mount this in isn't the optimal location that I want to monitor the temperature there is some ones that have wireless sensors that you can actually mount the sensor somewhere different than the location of the thermostat but I want to do it on the cheap this was already in the building however it was in one of the tenant suites and you know I don't want to have to bug attendants whenever have to adjust the temperature so I'm going to mount this in a mechanical room and I'm going to mount the temperature sensor that's in here as long as I can get it out of here and Maat and mount it remotely let's head over to the bench and see what we can do okay so here's the thermostat it's a something I acquired when I purchase the building so I haven't actually had a heating season in this building yet and we can see it's very basic however the system in there is really simple it has an on-and-off it's basically a radiator a hot-water radiator system so basically this turns on it fires up the natural gas heating system which heats up some water floods it over through all the rads with a big pump and that's how all the Suites get their heat so it's either on or off and either all the suites are getting heats or all the suites aren't I have a future plan I was hoping to get it done this year but you know not not quite in time but the future plan may be for next year is to use some of these sensors so these are temperature and humidity sensors not that humidity matters but it'd be interesting to monitor and what the future plan is is to mount these in every suite and maybe places like the mechanical room and laundry room things of that nature where you know you also don't want them to freeze and then what the future plan would be is to make sure that all of the Suites have a nice even temperature you know keeping sort of minimum temperatures in mind and also that you know the rooms like the laundry room stay above a certain temperature I don't care if the laundry room is at 15 degrees but I care if the laundry room is that you know seven degrees let's say so watch out maybe next year for this this plan here and the other nice thing would be you know using something like the ham radio APRs I believe it is something like that to actually transmit the data so that you can actually you know monitor it local remotely that would be you know ideal but anyway this is going to be a very very simple project hopefully as long as I can get the the temperature sensor out of here this thing is surface mounted it might be a no-go but I'm assuming it probably won't be okay so the not here I've already taken this off because I did have to take the screws out to get this off the wall so I have seen in here before so this is what we got on the inside quite a nice liquid crystal display and the interface on the outside is basically these two buttons and really it's it's either off or heats that's the only user control so when we push these two buttons here what that does is it actually allows us to okay it's off right now put it to heat that allows us to set the turn on temperature and 23 degrees that's actually the Celsius temperature in this room right now where this is being recorded and so we could say that you know let's say if the temperature goes below 22 to turn on and they'll just be really in here and I believe the connections were connected onto these ones here so they'll just be a dry contact relay that changes changes state to tell the system to turn on runs off of two doublea's in series so we just got a simple three volt system here and yeah we can see it's basically chip on board here so we won't be able to see any sort of microcontrollers because this will be obviously a custom die that's built directly onto the board I don't have the the manual for this but we can see there's obviously a program jumper that's been cut here for some modes and I guess so we don't have any cutouts for buttons here but obviously this is probably a multi-use board here for different versions there is some gold fingers here which are you know some of those membrane buttons would be on some models obviously okay so I'm not sure this is labeled s9 and that's interesting you put it or some document if there's some numbers on there maybe we can look up some documentation okay so we got a crystal up here this is a one that can handle different events at different times so obviously this is keeping track of time we have an LED for backlight here and we got a couple screw so let's undo these screws here and remove this board let's see what's behind here okay two screws are removed and this is just a snap together construction you can see we just have a little prying tab here and another one here at the bottom and it looks like all the connections are done through this flexible ribbon cable there so I've actually removed the batteries and you can see this thing is extremely low low energy here with the the LCD display it's it's basically running on batteries which is a good thing because then you can change the batteries and you're not going to lose your programming because the sync and obviously last by the way I'll just uh just hang it out on whatever charges lingering on the capacitors so I'm just going to pull this off here just a couple switches at the bottom so these switches are external there's another switch down here electric or gas so I'm just imagining that electric or gas is maybe just the the time delays between switching maybe something like that maybe when it's on one of the modes it it waits maybe after it hears a little battery symbol change the batteries it probably waits X amount of seconds before switching just so it doesn't you know chatter the relay back and forth and do some crazy stuff to the to the furnace controller so very simple construction on this bottom board we can see some some jumper links in here so this is obviously single single sided construction here so they've saved some money that way and very simple here is the actual relay that's obviously doing the the switching that'll be connected to this guy here directly not much to it and the back of this board yeah this is also single sided copper so it's all surface mount on this side and we have a few jumper links on the back here and interest in these little jumpers here that have been cuts the rack fee front soldered okay so I'm thinking the only item that that sort of sticks out is this little blue guy here let me see if I can make it focus on there so you know it could be anything in there it's not marked on either side and it looks like a capacitor you know but it is also proper size for a thermistor and so just to show you how confusing it can be you know so does that look similar to this this is a this is a point one micro farad capacitor you know sure does can you tell the difference other than a little bit of size not really but I'm thinking this is a device but what I'm going to do is I'm going to put an ice pack to side here and let's cool the sucker down and let's check it out okay so batteries are back in let me zoom in a little bit here and got a little ice pack here nice and cold out of the fridge all I'm going to do is I'm just going to rest this guy on here and let's see if we can make this this temperature sensor read colder and we should see this 23 drop okay so it took quite a while but we got it to cool down to 20 I think there's a very slow third progression so I'm assuming this is actually much colder than 20 degrees this probably took about a minutes to cool down to this so what I'm thinking is if there's drastic changes in temperature it probably doesn't update right away and I can imagine that's probably just to prevent things like if this was mounted near a door every time the door opened you know we get a blast of cold air and this one would immediately turn on so they're probably having some really big hysteresis in there so that it's a it takes a long time for the cold to actually affect it it's looking for more gradual changes which is you know generally what you get in the house anyway so we are going down and this is the only thing that I was touching with this cold here just right here so we have found the temperature sensor it is it is this device right here and thankfully it is surface mount and the other thing I'm just thinking let me just short this out if that is a temperature sensor shorting it out shouldn't cause any damage and we should see a drastic change in the or some some change here probably a like an invalid temperature or something will get there we go so it doesn't know what the temperature is it's just showing dashes now this is the set temperature so this one is nothing so if I release that it will probably go back after 30 seconds or so let's see what happens and now it's at room temperature or its it'll it'll start to be going up from room temperature so and there we go so we're at 16 so it's it's sort of reading the actual temperature now sure which is well below the actual room temperature in here which is around 23 24 so we're slowly warming back up to ambient and now we know where it is let's say desolder that guy okay pop the batteries out I'm going to be desoldering that with the hakko 808 it's a desoldering gun and if you've never used a die soldering gun they're awesome and this one I think is the the best one I've ever used it if you've never seen one of these types what it basically has is it's a trigger operated it's been plugged in for a few minutes so it's hot the tip heats up just like a soldering iron the back has a vacuum pump and basically you can see the the tip has a hole in it so what you do is you actually place the tip over top of your your through-hole device right on the lead you heat it you do a little swirl to get that lead molten there the solder around the lead molten and then you just give the trigger a pull and it'll suck all the molten solder right in so it's exit right through the tip into this chamber here in this chamber basically has a filter that catches all the solder and so the filters are replaceable the chamber is cleanable and so you're just good to go you can just do many of them so let's see how this thing works so we got to desolder those two leads right there I'll place it on a little pump and there we go so that one there is done let's do number two I'm going to place it on give it a swirl give it a pump there we go two for two so let's see how this thing works it was glued in also so I'm just gonna pry it off a little bit of glue on there there we go no sweat so if you're using a you know braided copper braid or one of the desoldering pumps the manual one when you do the plunger in yeah give it a press man that this thing is ten times better than that so here is the actual device so this is the one we're going to be mounting remotely it's just in a little holder and I'm going to be mounting it in this little project box here so this box will be mounted in a location this used to be and this has a little location for some wires to go in and ideally I wouldn't use this connection for the wires but I don't have the ones that would like to use I've run out so I'm just going to probably just hot glue this right to the back plate here and so I can have nice access to the screws the temperature sensor will be mounted well we soldered directly to these and there's a nice introduction for the wires to get to get terminated and as far as holes go what I would like to do I don't have time for this but what I would like to do is actually make a drill pattern so I could have a really nice sequence of holes on here I'll probably just well maybe just plunger just plunge a bunch of holes with a soldering iron or you know just maybe just take a drill to it and just just make a bunch of holes down the sides in the front just so that it can get some nice some nice airflow but still be protected so let's uh let's move on to that okay got a nice big fat tip on here nice and beefy we're just going to punch some holes here with the my crappiest tip I got and I got the iron cranked right up to four hundred and eighty degrees Celsius so it should take nothing to punch some holes in this and I'm just going to just make a nice little pattern here again it would be optimal to do it uh you know in a way that's oh and of course I there's a standoff in here and I think that's exactly what I hit let me move beside that there we go okay so there's a hole let me just make a bunch of holes and if you don't have yourself a set of these helping hands you should get them because there's no real better way of holding two parts together and then being able to get in there with with solder and your your soldering iron then using a set of helping hands to hold joints together while you solder them okay so this guy has been soldered on and all we have to do is stick it on to the back here I'm going to use the mini heat gun for this one and I want the temperature sensor you know somewhat centered so and obviously the wires are going to be coming in the top here so I'm just going to apply some hot glue right on the bottom here and I'm going to be quite generous with it if I thought about this before what I would have done also is a scratched up the surface a little bit so it had something to notch into but oh well I think this will adhere okay and I'm just going to remember that when it sin to want to make sure that I can still access the screws without them being filled with glue or blocked and it looks okay and I'm happy with that with that positioning okay so this side is done this is going to be closed up that's going to allow the air to get in there I'm going to have a wire coming out of here and this is going to be bolted to the wall I'll keep it in in this position here so that it dries and once that dries it'll be done okay and what I'm planning and doing is also mounting one of these same terminal blocks on this guy I'm going to be utilizing the same wire it is twisted it's not shielded in or anything but it is twisted wire that goes up to this location and it's not going to be very far from where this is going to be mounted probably about 15 feet so I'm not I'm not thinking I'll have any problems with a standard wire connecting these two devices I will test it on on this end here just to make sure that it is monitoring properly and as far as locating this goes you know I could just put you know pop it right here however you know that would look kind of ugly so I think what I'm going to do is just hot glue this in position probably something like that so I'll have or maybe over here so I'll have two wires coming out of here for the relay contact and then two wires coming out of here for the temperature sensor so it'll be you know a nice little unit here okay so terminal block is mounted wires are run under here ample amounts of hot glue here to hold things in place that should be fine the only thing I had to modify here as you can see where the wires came through there was a piece of plastic there just a little bit of melting was was just enough to allow those new wires to feed under and that's held in place underneath here with a few dots of hot glue also so it's a you know stays out of the way and I just snake some here and comes right over to this brand-new terminal block so it doesn't have to look pretty because nobody will ever see that just have to be functional okay so everything is wired up this is just one of these desktop units here so we've got about twenty four point two degrees Celsius in the room right now and we're showing 24 degrees on the system so we have the temperature sensor hooked up right here and it's just feeding around this is just a loop of wire it's around 35 feet so this is actually longer this is just station wire this is longer than what is actually going to be used in the field so I just wanted to make sure that you know this being plugged in remotely wasn't going to be an issue and clearly it's not so this is not going to be the sensor here or the wire connecting to the sensor this will be something a little different so when it's is all buttoned up here you'll just have a uniform cable coming in and that'll be the unit that's mounted in the suite this we mounted in the mechanical room and we're good to go for more information go to hacked gadgets comm
installing the manifold the manifold performs a number of functions primarily it distributes water from a central location to various rooms in the house a length of pipe was only limited capacity to carry heat so there is a limit to the effective length of a single pipe run circuit when you have a large room or the room is a long way from the manifold it may be necessary to use a number of circuits the number of outlets on the manifold will be dictated by the number of circuits it's feeding the JG manifold has our standard 15 millimeter push-fit connections for ease of use and enables the UK standard pipe size to be used as you can see we have an automatic air vent filled connection and on the bottom we have the drain connection on the opposite ends we have two isolated valves that flow is on top and the returned is connected to the bottom rail we have temporary decorator's caps on the bottom rail these are used for isolation and adjustment of the circuits and will be replaced by electrically operated actuators at the commissioning stage the actuators allow the user to control each room individually the flow meters on top of the manifold give a visual indication of the amount of water flowing through each circuit the amount of flow needed will depend on the length of the circuit and the temperature drop required generally the shorter the circuit the more restriction will be needed this is called balancing the system setting the flow is achieved by lifting the locking ring at the base of the flow meter and turning the adjusting nut the mixing valve the JG control unit comprises a pump and an adjustable blending valve at the bottom because the water is too hot to be fed into the floor unblended the manifold is coupled with a JG control unit the control pack is connected to the isolating valve on the manifold using the washers provided it performs a number of functions it blends high temperature water from the boiler with the water in the ufh system to maintain a designed temperature usually between fourteen sixty degrees depending on the application it also circulates water around the various ufh circuits be aware that this pump will not circulate to and from the boiler for difficult locations we have manifold elbows as well as manifold extensions fitting the manifold to the wall the manifold must be located as centrally as possible to the circuit is feeding allowing enough height to accommodate the installation and screed depth filling the manifold due to the large quantity of pipe work it's important to follow the correct procedures to minimize the amount of air in the system which can lead to problems with testing and operating the system open all flow gauges at the top of the manifold by lifting the locking cover and turning the adjuster anti-clockwise connect the fill points to a host pipe and the drain connection to a bucket or drain it's important to ensure the water is forced around the ufh loops one at a time to prevent short-circuiting from one manifold rail to the other first close all the decorators caps to isolate the circuits then starting at the furthest end of the manifold open only one of the decorators caps blush the water around the loop until all the air is purged close the cap and open the next circuit repeat the process until every circuit is purged when completed close the bottom valve shut off the water supply and close the top valve the system is now ready for pressure testing pressure testing the manifold turn off any electrical equipment isolate the manifold from the heating system by turning the ball valves to the off position open all flow gauges at the top of the manifold by lifting the locking cover and turning the adjuster anti-clockwise ensure all temporary adjuster heads are in the fully open position by turning anti-clockwise connect a suitable pressure testing kit to one of the fill valves with the valve open pump up the pressure to 2 bar isolate the pressure at the tester and leave for 10 minutes while checking for leaks or pressure drops if all is well increase the pressure to 10 bar and leave for a further 10 minutes while checking for leaks or pressure drops if all is well reduce pressure to operating pressure squee did floors should be left to approximately 6 bar until the screed has been laid and dried to protect pipe work from damage a variety of screens can be used such as sand cement or a flowing screed the screed is typically 50 to 65 millimeters thick when laying the screed care should be taken to ensure that the screed is compacted around the pipe properly most screed floors require 28 days after laying before pre heating can begin however calcium sulfate screens may need only seven days after laying check with the manufacturer for specific drying times under no circumstances should the ufh be used for speeding up the drying period if the ufh has been installed when there is a possibility of freezing conditions suitable antifreeze should be added to protect the pipe work the system will need to be flushed out and refilled prior to operation when turning on initially the temperature of the blending valve should be set to the lowest setting 25 to 30 degrees and run for two to three days before building up the temperature over the next couple of days you
– [Host] George says if
you've been lucky enough to stumble across this
plumberparts.co.uk video trying to find out about
what to do when you're first turning your heating
system on, then great. You're going to find out
all the information you need in the next few seconds. But first, George would like
to tell you to subscribe to our videos because we do
lots of plumbing help every week.
Don't we, George? Don't run away moody cat. Since George can't be
bothered to talk to me, I hope you find out the
information you need. And remember everyone, to hold tight. Plumberparts.co.uk Honest
reviews and advice. Hold tight and welcome to
this Plumberparts.co.uk video. My name's James and today
we're here to have a very quick look through the little
checklist that you should do when you turn on your heating
system for the first time after a balmy British
summer of rain and sort of twenty degrees, you know
when it's just not very nice. The temperature outside at
the moment has dropped down like below zero degrees or
whatever and it is getting cold. So, people are thinking about turning on their heating systems. If you're hard, and you
haven't turned it on yet, and you just put another jumper on. If you're like me, you're
thinking about wacking on your heating now And this is basically a
brief checklist of the things you should do.
Anyway, I'm going to divide
the checklist into two things. Firstly, just the really simple stuff. Any kind of house I know
what DIY can do with really simple tools. And then the slightly more advanced bit. Don't get me wrong, it's
not really, really difficult but you sort of need
slightly a bit more knowledge or, you know, cojones
to have a look at the certain things we're going to do. So, firstly, let me just go
over the really really basic start bits. I hope you enjoy the video. And I hope you subscribe. And I hope that you hold tight. So, number one on your
list of things to do is to get yourself a little
radiator bleeding key like the one I've got here. There are a few different types. And just go around each one
of your radiators in the house and bleed the air out of
the top of the radiator. You're probably going to
find there's not a lot of air or there's none at all.
I mean, that's brilliant. It means the heating
system's been well-inhibited, which is a treatment you
put in the water to stop air happening. If you do have loads of air, might be a good idea to
give your plumber a quick call once you've got
all the heating working. And just say, mate, can you
pop around and wack some inhibitor in the heating system. Or, you can click on the link
that's appearing now that will show you how to put inhibitor
in your heating system. We've also left a link to
that in the description below. So the usual way to bleed
a radiator is to make sure that both valves at each end
of the radiator are fully open. And then, grab your radiator
bleed key and just open that. Open the key up. You'll see which end it is
on the nice cross end here. Just open that up like that. And as you can see, we've
got water coming out here straightaway. Once you've bled any
air out of the radiator, the next thing you're going
to need to do is get a pair of grips.
Remove the radiator
TRV, if you've got one. And then use the grips to
wiggle the pin underneath the TRV and make sure that that's free. Once you've done that, go
to the lock shield end, which is the other end of
the TRV on the radiator. Completely close the lock
shield by turning it clockwise. And then give it half a turn
to three quarters of a turn anti-clockwise, and
that radiator is set up and ready to use. Do that to every radiator
in the house and then we can move on to the next
(mumbles) we need to do before turning your heating system on. So once you've got that
done, obviously, you know if you're letting water
out of the radiators, if you haven't got an F
and E tank in the loft, which will automatically
refill the heating system, then, you're going to need
to use the fitting lube on the boiler or on the
pressurized kit to just top up the water level in the heating system.
If you're not happy doing
this bit, then get a plumber in for you. I mean, it is really, really
easy and I've left a link in the video description below as well as how to pressurize
a heating system as well, we're using that method. So, the next thing you'll
do is go to your room thermostat. If you've got one like
this, make sure it clicks (clicking sound) Yeah, clicky click click.
So make sure that that's working. And then really we're at
the end of the beginner's department, okay. You've gone around every radiator. You've effectively done
a thing called balance the system, whereby you've shut down
the lock shields and just cracked them open a little bit. What that does is evenly
distribute flow throughout the whole heating system, so all
the radiators get nicely warm. We've made sure that the
TRVs aren't stuck shut because sometimes they can
be shut for the hold of the summer, and then not spring on again.
And also, we've made sure
that there's no air in the heating system. The next few things I'm
going to show you are very very simple. Before you turn the heating system on, it's very important that, number one, you know that
the pump has got water in it. If you can get to it. And also that the pump empeller
inside is nice and free. And then secondly, if
you've got any zone valves, either two port or three port
valves, just use the lever arm on them to make sure that
the valve body is completely free. I'll show you how to do
those bits right now. Alright, so I just so happens
I've got a nice little pump like this just hanging about.
I've taken it out of an hold house. A real old Grundfos, this one is here. But most of the pumps are the same. A lot of the time now the pumps
are self (mumbles) and you won't have a knot on
the end of it like this. But, if you've got a knot on the end of it like this one here, it
can't hurt just to whip this knot off using a large slotted
screwdriver like the one we've got here. You're going to get a little
bit of water come out of here, so you might need a
little towel or something like that. And then inside you've
got the actual end of the impeller. We pop our screwdriver in
there and as you can see we can wiggle around the
impeller on the inside. So now we know that the
pump's going to be free and it isn't going to seize
up and burn the pump out when we turn the power on. What we do, once we've done
that, is is just pop our little nipple back on
here and tighten that up.
So the next and slightly
more advanced thing is where after we looked at
the pump is to make sure all the two port and three port valves are motoring okay. Really really simple to do. You can either grab the lever on the end. Most different manufacturers
of two port and three port valve have a motor
on the end as well, so you can have a look at that. And if you really, really
want to go into it, you can unscrew the little screw at the end. Make sure the power's off of course.
Which it should be because we haven't turned the heating system on yet. And you've got a little screw in here that undoes just like so. And you've got a little
screw on the other side here that undoes. Then, you'll be able to pull off the head without having to drain anything down. You can only do that, especially with these Honeywells, with a head that's got a dimple on it. But every other top manufacturer, Drayton, Morrison, Danfoss, there's loads of them. All of their heads can come
off pretty much without having to drain anything down. And then, you've got the
actual valve body here, just make sure that that's
nice and free and easy to move as well. And there we go. That's lovely there. And we know that's working okay. And we know that the
motor alright on here. Now once you've done all those checks, I always advise that
if you want to pop half a tub of inhibitor in the heating system, make sure that's topped
up, if you really want to go into things specially
you can drain the system out and flush it all
through and all that sort of thing.
But really, for most DIYs,
what we've just done there should be by far like what
you need to do to make sure the heating system's okay. Now, all you need to do is
turn your thermostat right up. Turn your programmer on
to "heating constant" , and obviously turn the hot
water on if that's on as well. And then, you should find
the valve opens, the pump cuts in and works okay, and
all the radiator's getting lovely and warm as well. So there we go. As if I was going to
finish off a video without giving Mr. G a nice big gut scrub.
I hope that video has given
you a better idea of the small little checks you can
run through to make sure the heating system's going to be okay. And make sure that it's
going to work alright. Obviously, if you've
got any problems or you need any more information,
then contact us on the comments section below this video. Please share this video
with your mates as well on Facebook and Twitter or wherever. Or you can also follow
us at our Facebook Page. I'm leaving a link to that right now. And also there's a link
to it in the description of the video below. So, if you go through a quick
run of what we've done there, We've made sure that all
the radiators are working and that they're balanced out. We've made sure there's
no air in the system, and if there is, we've
topped the water up, and also we've put a
little bit of inhibitor in as well if we needed to. We've made sure that our
pump is not seized up, and that it nicely runs and wheels around.
And we've also made sure that
the two port or three port valves that we were looking at, all the motors work okay, and the valve bodies are free and clear and ready to use. Obviously if you do find that you've got any problems, then call
a qualified plumber in to come and sort it out for you. Don't try and do anything
more than that if you're not happy doing it.
So, anyway, I hope you've
enjoyed this video, I'll see you in our next video which is an Ask the plumber video, With all the plumbing
disasters that you guys send us in on a daily
basis at our Facebook page. Remember, if you've got
any photos or videos, or anything like that, send them through to us for our perusal.
And you never know, you
might win a sticker and a scrub from Mr. G. Anyway, I'll see you in our next video, and remember everyone,
what are you going to do? You've got to hold tight. See you later. Plumberparts.co.uk Honest Reviews and Advice. Come here. Don't Don't! Awww. George!.
Plumberparts.co.uk, honest reviews and tips Hold tight! And welcome to today's Plumberparts.co.uk video that's all about how to remove And the airlock of the coolant If you have followed all the other steps that we have on our channel on how to get access You go radiator, you have done your TRV, then you have done balancing system, you have changed the pump Speed, you've done everything and it's still running you probably don't have to You find it's got airlock on going into that radiator or that chain of radiators if They still don't work if you have not all of those things you probably want to give First try them because you need reasonably good knowledge and steel balls To be able to actually do this a certain thing.
Click on the link so this is what appears now That will take you to thats HUB radiators got loads of all of the videos About radiators. Let's take a look at how we're going to remove this lock now. You're going to need a Hose. As I said you are going to need a big nerve! And after that Hopefully they can get moving and spot. Hold tight! So we did everything we could on this system and on this cooler It's still not getting hot Now this can also work for saying three or four rads that are not getting hot on some Leg, so always on hand to know how to do it.
So the first thing we do is be it in The pressure system or whether the tank it's feeding from the loft is that we turn off the valve on Every end. This is the first thing we do. Get yourself next Bleed the main coolant like this one. A little tip for you if you get one like this Get yourself a file and a file taper off because it gets really annoying. I put a little mark on mine up I'm not losing. Although I am probably still going to. A small Tupperware basin and possibly a piece of cloth And just dispel the pressure of the coolant. Right once you finish that drain and you have dissipated the pressure from the coolant Get a hose so it will go a normal hose size of 15mm like This one here For 1/2 inch male thread. Some radiators will have a built-in thread just for the nipple to bleed If you got it one of those you wouldn't be able to do so. So once you've got that ready. Get a little PTFE PTFEand get around it After that remove your nipple bleed screw into this take out of your hose.
Be right next to it I was on guard and then I take this off. It should come loose and be under a towel Something to catch a small amount of water As soon as this comes out you should be able to feel it if you tap it a little. OK that will come now and just loose Quick change a little over like that. See that? How fast was that? Like a cat! Even quick, I can't believe myself sometimes! If you don't think you've got a good enough connection between your faucet and your hose or nipple As we call it Get yourself a jubilee clip and wrap that round there to tighten up and that up. Before we move on to the next bit I recommend you turn all of your heating system off You go to either port two or three port fuses, and if you know how, latch Then open, you will find the little arm on there – the latch can only be opened.
Also if You've got a squeeze system Make sure you've got a reasonable amount of pressure in that natural home It will be one to one and a half bar If you need to know how to top the page, look at our site Pressure on heating video systems and also if you've got a tank fed from Loft make sure that the ball valve drops nicely down and has not been stuck in so that they can get in Sometimes stuck This will not allow more water into the system. Once you've done that, you are Ready to do the next bit cleansed by air From the flow side and all return coolant. What we're going now not Is the flush side You will not believe how easy this is to do. All you have to do is unlock The radiator is above. You'll hear air and water rushing out of this big hole we've now done Got here Instead of this tiny little hole you used to be here. I will let any that air out. Now if you sometimes have a heating system You could already turn on open this valve and feel the hot water coming through.
As soon as you feel the hot water coming through you are pretty much guaranteed that you have Probably removed the lock. Now hopefully this system here no longer has any airlocks in it. So we probably won't hear much of the air coming out But I'm going to open it anyway, and you never know what you might get. Hmm, I got a little in there! Turn it off looks like it has cleared now and it's very warm as well Thus we will not close that and then sign the other party. So we've closed that TRV at the other end and bled that little bit of air now and we're going to just do that Side shield lock.
A few drops of air there. That would come through nice and warm now, thats great. So right now we've been purging and flushing the opposite side of air. From the air We've got warm water coming through each of these ends. What do I need you to do right now Close each of these valves. The pressure will dissipate automatically from your hose So you don't have to worry about that. Remove your faucet, then put it back in your main bleed air. Once You have done so make sure that the system has either topped itself again up and f Tank E Or top it up with a special pressure ring like filling we described in our pressure Video heating. Before we finish because now you've likely successfully obtained your radiator gone I was happy Larry, and there are some things you don't need to think about why air I got in the system or in that radiator. One reason number is that there is enough not to mind in the system Mineral water will interact with radiators inside And create hydrogen. Cause number 2 and you've got an automatic air vent that is very close to suction The side of the pump can sometimes be tempted to suck air through an air vent.
The number of three tubes is your reason being expansion on the wrong side of the pump. Sometimes you'll be able to put your thumb on expanding tubes and see he's sucking on your The thumb. The fourth reason is to set the pump speed too high. Now it may sound crazy but if there is not Enough water is delivered to the impeller pump, that is, not enough Suction. Then the different pressures between suction and side discharge The pump impeller is such that the water causes the ability to cavitation. If you want to know more about cavitation just go online because I can not be bothered Go into it now but all you need to know is that it does not create air and that It can create airlocks. So make sure the pump speed is in the correct setting. I hope you found the video today useful I hope if we haven't covered anything you are going to tell us and let us know ever Follow us on Twitter, Facebook.
Give us love by site on plumberparts . co.uk If this video did not help, click on this link and return to the radiator HUB. Maybe you'll find a video out there that you can Help you I see you very soon all guys and I hope once again that you hold TIGHT all night long! BRAPP TING! Plumberparts.co.uk Honest reviews and advice.
Honest reviews and advice Boom, Selector and all that welcoming to the days, video, Alright, anyway, what we’re going to do is show you how to fit and hang this column radiator that we’ve got here. Column, radiators are usually heavy they’re lovely to look at Their convection is not poor, really, but they’re. Much more of a modern aesthetic thing to have in your house. That doesn’t mean I like to install them Now, there’s a couple of complicating factors with this job here. Firstly, the customer actually wants this roughly here. Okay, I can use this pipe here for my new TRV on this, but the other part that’s at that end is miles away, so we’re going to have to pull these floorboards up and hopefully we’ll be able to run our pipe up to the new position. So it comes up nice and neat. The other complicating factor is the walls.
The walls here are like my friend’s dog shit, They’re soft they stink and they don’t taste very nice So anyway. The first thing I want to do is take this floorboard up and take the old radiator out of the way I’ve already shut the system down. I’M not an idiot and I’m assuming if you know how to hang or you want to know how to hang one of these. You know you have to drain the heating system down.
It’s very similar to how to hang a bathroom towel rail. There will be a link to that video at the end of this one, And also we’ll put a link on how to drain down a pressurised system. Let going to be bloody mental. Isn’t it, I’ve got our main flow return. Just here. We’ve got our feed into the radiator here and another one there And now we’ve drained down. I can probably cut this roughly back here and we can drill a new hole for a new pipe to come up.
But I’m only going to do that when I’ve hung the new radiator and I know exactly where I want it to go So the next thing I’m going to do is just rip this radiator off – Oh my God. Oh, the wheels on the bus go round and round Round and round round and round The wheels on the bus go round and round All day long.
Now, we’ve disconnected each end. I’ve also put a bit of toilet rodding in each of the holes to stop any black water getting out. We should be able to just lift this off, Oh lovely and out of the way Now all we need to do is remove our old radiator piece, So we’re going to put a new TRV and set our valves on here. You have to spigots like this. That will be what you put into the radiator, Always use Loctite on these and on most threads It’s better than PTFE. Now you put your thumb on here and hold it like that and get your first reel or two just around the front, and then you go up and then you cross cross wiggle it around a bit cross, keep wiggling it and always just crossing and crossing. That’s what locks it in it’s supposed to be a hemp and paste premix. Really, I suppose that’s the best way of describing it
And then just cut your last little bit off with the little cutter Do this to both spigots and then you can wind both of those into the radiator. And then we can look at actually what position we’re going to be. Putting the radiator in going to wind out the old plug here, and then we got this our new spigot to go in here, Get ourselves an adjustable and just knit that Right. So now we’re going to look at the difficult part of this job. Basically, these radiators hang on brackets that sit on the wall. Just like this okay, They’re, very, very simple, brackets a couple of holes in each This particular company have lovingly sent us some brackets already. These are expanding plugs Because these radiators are heavy. You need to make sure you get decent Anchorage here, Especially with one this size. What I’ll, firstly, do is I’ll get my two bottom brackets and I’ll pop ’em here, like that.
Then I’ll know how far apart they’re going to be, And that is 21.5. So I get my pencil out about to give this girl a shout Bracket. Width equals 21.5 For the next bit. You don’t actually have to have the brackets in Cause. We know the centers of the brackets are going to, be the same as the centres for these pipes here, Grab your tape and put down the centre of that pipe there. Sometimes you need a little bit of help. Someone to give you a hand. A helpin’ hand Run it down to the centre of this pipe here. That is 143.2, So now we’ve got height, equals 143.2. Now much in the same way to the towel rail, video and this one you need to decide actually where you want to hang your radiator. Now because we already know our width of the bracket, we can define the centre of the radiator on the wall, divide that by two and measure out from that, and then we know where the widths of our brackets are going to be
When it comes to the height of the radiator, I always start from the bottom. For example, I want my radiator to be 20 centimeters off the floor. You know that your bracket is going to be roughly about a centimetre and a half above the bottom of the radiator. So you measure up 21.5 centimetres Because we’ve already got a pipe here that we’re going to be going on we’ve kind of defined as to where we’re going to put the radiator on with that. So what I now need to do is I need to get my new radiator in line with that pipe down there. So I’m going to mark up where my radiator valve is By that I mean just pop in that in the side of the radiator, then I know how far the width of that has to be away from that first bracket. Let’s do that now. I know that my radiator valve is going to end there, so I also know that the centre of my bracket is here.
So if I measure over from the centre of the pipe to the centre of my bracket, I get a measurement of 11.2, Here’s the pipe I need to go on. I need my centre to be on there, so I pop that on there I measure over 11.2 and Bob’s your uncle. So what I do I just get my spirit level until my bubble is okay, A small line just on there. So now we know where our bracket’s going to be The height I’m going to define we’re going to go at about 28 Grab my spirit level to a nice horizontal line on there. So now we know where our first bracket’s going to be Now. We measure up from here 143.2 all the way to make our mark there to make sure that my spirit level’s in line so they’re not out like that. Then what we need to do is measure across from here 21.5. Centimetres Make sure that they’re both level as well and then check all your levels when you’re finished (jet aeroplane, whistles) Right. What you do is just make one little dot: Tiny ass dot. So no one will notice
If you go slightly wrong, no one can see it Then pull out my spirit, level, tiny dot, just a tiny dot and maybe one below it, And I can see the dot we did a minute ago. That means you put a dash here So now we know that is in line with that one there And we’ll make sure the mark we made earlier on is okay Get that level Now we know that’s where we can put our second bracket Now we measure across From our line here, 21.5, So simple, We do the same at the bottom cause we’re crossing the bottom at 21.5 as well.
Right, so we got our spirit level, that’s set to the right height here and just over the mark. We’ve just made draw a mark there Then the top the same A little mark there And then, if you just want to make sure you’ve got your marks right. Just check it all out with the spirit level There we go, we’ve got our four marks Now I understand what we’ve just been over is long, arduous and pretty boring, but it’s important that you check your measurements, Make sure you’ve got a good spirit level. The one I’ve got is a Stabila, It’s the best And then you’ve just got to make sure that you’ve done everything correct and right Now. The way I’ve shown you just now is slightly strange because we were going off that earlier pipe, But most of you guys are going to, have a centre line. Okay, and you won’t have your pipes there. So what you do, then, is you measure your centre line? Get a horizontal across the bottom measure out to your two bottom brackets, then follow your centre line up and then measure out to your two top brackets, using that centre line.
That’s how you usually do it, But because we’ve got this pipe here, it’s slightly more complicated! So now I’m going to show you how you actually mark up each one of these brackets and then we’re going to drill the wall, and hopefully this wall isn’t going to fall to bits because, as I told you, it’s an absolute mess So we’ll go from here And see how we get on Bob, I pop that on the cross On this round there, one right down there and I’ll do that to the next one just across here And then do that to the two bottom ones Right spot your holes get your drill. This is such a horrible wall. It’s going to go easy here: (motor revs), Just going to pop my hand on here Now I’ll know whether I’ve gone deep enough for my plug. I need to go a tiny bit more
(motor revs), That’s as far as I dare go. So what I’m going to use is the adjustable hole here, just in case I’m just going to run this up tight (motor revs). Ah, that’s great! That is great Not going anywhere Right. So We’ve got ’em all in They’re all level I’ve checked all my widths and everything They all look fine. So it’s now time to hang our radiator up, Put those two to the bottom. There Slide in at the top Pop there we go Well, that looks lovely Check. Our levels – Oh yeah, Oh my God, Yep – that is an absolute beauty. So there we go. Its all done now. It’s hanging on the wall beautifully It’s exactly where he wanted it, and it’s nice and level. I’M going to pipe it up now and I’m going to film that and you can watch that in a second time lapse. Okay,
But very quickly, there’s a cat out there eating and I want to film it eating close up Cause. I’M weird like that. Lets do that now Come on eat your dinner Right. So, there we go Piped up. I’M going to fill it up now. There’s not going to be any leaks cause. I’M amazing, I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s video. I’ve you’ve got anymore questions or you see. We’ve done something wrong or something like that. Let us know in the comments You can also follow us on Twitter and Facebook, as you know So remember. If you’ve got any questions, ask us and we will hopefully answer them in Ask a Plumber for you. I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s video. I hope you’re going to come back and watch some more
I hope you like column radiators and you think they’re amazing, And I hope that you have a lovely weekend if it is the weekend when we actually do this. So whatever weekend comes up after this, I hope you have a lovely one Yeah. I hope it doesn’t rain. I fear the latter. People Hold tight, , Honest reviews and advice..
if you've got a leak somewhere essential eating system it can be difficult finding out where it is one of the Communists call these is a leak down the back of this pipe here and your actual variator well the big problem is a lot of the time you can't actually see that the water is leaking down there so a good tip is to get a piece of tissue it could be toilet tissue a kitchen wall and just tie it around the pie laughs and what happen is if any water does run down there now it'll wipe the tissue and the tissue will stay away so you're more than it's that particular really a turval that's leaking